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STRANaEES AND VISITANTS' 



ILLUSTKATED 



POCKET GUIDE TO SCARBOROUGH. 



K > » .» > 1 



THLEVQ EDITION. 



SCARBOROUGH: 
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY T. STORRY, 

XEWBRO'-STEEBT. 

1847. 






e .6 **« 



I 




PAGE. 

Agricultural and General 

Library 46 

Amicable Societys' 

Schools 23 

Ayton, East and West 72 

Borough Goal 25 

Brompton 77 

Bridlington 84 

Custom House 37 

Cliflf 47 

Cliff Bridge 48 

Castle > 11 

Castle Howard 81 

Camera Obsciira 61 

Church, St. Mary's . . 18 

Champley's Baths .... 59 

Christ Church 60 

Crescent 60 

Crown Hotel 53 

Camelian Bay 66 

Buncombe Park 81 

Ebenezer Chapel ... 28 

Friends Meeting House 3 1 

Fish Market 32 

Falsgrave 67 

Falsgrave Walk .... 67 

Filey 81 

Fl»i&l»grou$h H«ad .. 82 



General Sea Bathing 

Infirmary 38 

Ganton 77 

Hunmanby 84 

Humane Society .... 41 

Historical Sketch .... 2 

Hackness 73 

Hayburn Wyke 74 

Hutton-Buscel 78 

Helmsley 80 

Harland's Baths .... 59 

Infant School 30 

Independent Chapel . . 30 

Kirby Moorside 79 

Kirkdale Cavern. ... 79 

Life Boat 37 

Lancasterian Schools . . 22 

Lighthouse 36 

Market 44 

Mechanics* Institution 44 

Municipal History . . . , 8 
Merchant Seamen's 

Hospital .J. 24 

Museum 64 

Mere 69 

Newborough Street . . 43 

News Room 47 

National Schools 24 

North Marine Terrace 2 



92 



New Pier 

Odd Fellows' Hall 

Oliver's Mount 

Post Office 

Parliamentary History 
Primitive Methodist 

Chapel 

Piers and Harbours . . 

Plantation 

Pickering 

Railway Station .... 

Rivaulx Abbey 

Robin Lythe's Hole . . 
Roman Catholic Chapel 

Rides ... 

Robin Hood's Bay . . 

Sherburn 

Stainton Dale 

Scalby 

Scalby Mill 

St. Thomas's Chapel . . 
St. Thomas's Hospital 
St. Thomas's Church. . 
St. Nicholas's Hospital 

and Church 



34 I Savings' Bank 46 

62 i Spa 48 

68 ' Saloon , 51 

44 I Sea Bathing 51 

10 I South Cliff ■. 51 

1 School of Industry . / 29 

31 I Seamer 76 

33 ' Trade . 38 

66 Town Hall.... 47 

78 Tabernacle 27 

67 Taylor's Free Dwellings 29 

80 Trinity House 32 

83 Theatre 45 

27 Tea Gardens .... 68 

71 Travis's Baths 58 

75 Weddell's Baths 42 

77 Wesleyan Chapel 45 

74 Wilson's Mariners* 

73 Asylum . 22 

69 Western Pier 35 

42 W^alks 65 

62 Wykeham 78 

63 Wilson's Wood ...... 70 

Westfield Terrace 67 

57 Whitby 79 




T. STORKY, PRINTEB, SCARBOROUGH. 




SCABBOBOVGK. 



CHAPTEE I. 

MONG the many means employed to 
recover the frame suffering from dis- 
ease, or to restore the wasted energies 
of the man of business and intense appli- 
cation, one of the most natural and 
efficacious, is a temporary residence amid a change of 
scenery, at some place of acknowledged salubrity. Places 
conveniently situated for this purpose have long been 
celebrated both on the continent and in our own country, 

B 




SCARERO' GUIDE. 



and periodically resorted to by the invalid, the man of 
business, and the seeker of rational enjoyment and 
recreation ; and among these places, none holds a more 
distiuguii^hed position, than the subject of our present 
treatise. 

Scarborough is delightfully situated in a spacious bay, 
on the German ocean ; from the shore of which it rises in 
the form of an extensive amphitheatre, presenting to 
the beholder throughout its entire vicinity, a rich variety 
of the magnificent scenery of nature. From its elevated 
cliffs and terraces, a most commanding view is obtained 
of the " immense world of waters," and from the num- 
berless objects constantly flitting upon its surface, per- 
petual animation is given to this scene of indescribable 
. beauty ; while its boundless extent may justly fill the 
mind with the loftiest ideas of the infinity of that Being, 
by whose wisdom and power the whole were created. 

Turning our attention from the ocean to the lofty cliffs 
which overhang the shores, a series of the most delighful 
marine scenery imaginable presents itself, and extends 
from our presence, until it becomes lost in the dis- 
tance. Art has employed many resources to increase 
the natural beauties of the situation. Pleasant walks 
ItAd shady retreats every where abound, which afford 
to the visitor the most salubrious exercise, and pleasurable 
enjoyment, 

HISTORICAL SKETCH. 

The early history of Scarborough, like that of most 
places 0$ antiquity, is involved in considerable obscurity ; 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



however, it is highly probable that it was a Roman station, 
but there is no positive evidence to fully establish the 
fact. It is quite certain that it was a place of con- 
siderable importance under the Saxons and Danes before 
the conquest. The Saxons were extremely partial to the 
Roman foundations in Britain, to which, when they 
occupied them, they gave the appellation of burgh, 
signifying a fortified place. These burghs were in- 
habited by mechanics, tradesmen, and merchants, and 
enjoyed many privileges. The burgesses elected their 
own magistrates, and transacted public business in their 
general meeting, which was called a burghmote. These 
privileges, and the exclusive enjoyment of markets and 
fairs, distinguished them from the villages, which were 
solely inhabited by persons employed in husbandry. 

Scearhurg, the most ancient name of Scarborough, is 
of Saxon origin ; scear^ signifying a rock, and burg, a 
municipal, or fortified place. Hence there is reason to 
conclude, that it has been a Saxon town on a Roman 
foundation. 

Mention is made of Scarborough by name, by Thorkelin, 
a Danish historian ; who, in illustrating the invasions of 
Northumberland by the Danes in the ninth and tenth 
centuries, says, '* Towards the end of the reign of 
Adalbricht, king of Northumberland, an army of Danes, 
under Knish and Gorm, invading England, subdued a 
great part of this province; upon which, Adalbricht, 
meeting the enemy, and fighting a battle at Cliffland, 
or Cleveland, in the north, routed the Danes with great 
slaughter ; but soon after, the Danes leading their forces 
B 2 



SCARBRO GUIDE. 



to Scardaborga^ fought and obtained the victory ; then 
marching to York, they subdued the inhabitants, and 
passed some time in peace. No mention is made of 
Scarborough in Dooms-day book, though we have ad- 
duced evidence to prove its existence before the Roman 
conquest, and will endeavour to show the immediate cause 
of its being omitted in that record. Tosti, Count of 
Northumberland, and brother to Harold, king of England, 
had by his cruelty excited an insurrection of the Northum- 
brians, on which account he was justly dispossessed by 
his brother. In revenge for this disgrace, Tosti engaged 
the assistance of Harralld Hadrada, or Harfagar, King 
of Norway, who embarking with his family, and a mul- 
titude of warriors, sailed across the British Ocean, and 
landed at Shetland. Tosti joined him, and they sailed 
onward to Scarborough, which they plundered and burnt, 
in the year 1066.'* 

Snorro, a Norwegian Statesman and writei-, in the 
early part of the tenth century, in detailing this event, 
g'ves a description highly illustrative of the localities 
of Scarborough at this period, when it consisted en- 
tirely of wooden huts on the shore, sheltered by the 
cliff, on which the castle was afterwards built. " After- 
wards," (says he,) *' Harralld Hadrada, being driven to 
Scardahurgani^ landed and gave battle to the inhabi- 
tants. Then ascending a steep hill commanding the 
town, he caused an immense pile of wood to be raised, 
and set fire to. Then, while the flames were widely 
spreading, large burning firebrands were thrown down 
upon the town, until one house catching fire from another, 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



the whole city surrendered. The invaders having slain 
great numbers, plundered every article capable of removal^ 
and the only terms on which the lives of the conquered 
could be spared, was to surrender themselves and families 
unconditionally to the king, who subjected the whole 
province to his authority." The same event is also men- 
tioned by M, Thierry, in his history of the Roman 
conquest. This, and the cruel and desolating policy 
of William the Conquerer, who laid waste a great part 
of Yorkshire, and the sea coast north of the Humber, 
sufficiently accounts for its not being mentioned in Dooms- 
day book. 

Passing over many particulars in the history of the town, 
we arrive at the building of the castle, erected by the Earl 
of Albemarle, in the year 1136. Subsequently, in the year 
1181, a charter of incorporation was granted by Henry II., 
and a privilege obtained of holding a market ; thus furnish- 
ing satisfactory evidence of the increased importance of 
the town. 

The maritime situation of Scarborough would naturally 
lead the inhabitants to engage in the pursuits of commerce. 
Evidence remains of their possessing ships and property, 
prior to the year 1153; and in 1222, Henry III. granted a 
patent for making a new port at Scarborough. 

During the greater part of this period, satisfactory evi- 
dence exists that the town was confined within very narrow 
limits. It was originally in all probability, nothing more 
than a number of wood huts, erected upon the shore, and 
sheltered by the cliffs. As the population increased, the 
inhabitants, gradually extended their dwellings up the sides 
B 3 



SCARBRO GUIDE. 



of the hill ; and to increase their security, surrounded them 
on the south-east and west by a strong wall, and on the 
north by a ditch and mound of earth. The wall on the 
west, which formed a defence from the land, extended from 
the top of Auborough street, along the line now occupied 
by Cross-street, and terminated at Bland's cliff, a little 
to the south of the present market cross. From Bland's 
cliff the wall which protected the town on the south-east, 
towards the sea, was continued in an easterly directioil 
along the south side of Merchants' row, and terminated at 
the foot of the castle dykes. The ancient moat which pro- 
tected the town on the north may still be traced, by means 
of some portions which remain. It extended in an easterly 
direction from the top of Auborough street, through a field 
situated to the left of the present road leading to the castle, 
to the great bank, which formed part of tho ancient mound 
From this bank, it is presumed, that it pursued an easterly 
direction to the foot of the castle hill, but as the land in 
this part is considerably wasted away, this portion of the 
line cannot be traced. The addition of Newborough, or 
the new Town, must have been made previous to the reign 
of Henry III., as it is named in a charter granted by that 
monarch. 

Leland thus describes the town in 1534: — *' Scardeburg 
Toune, though it be privilegid, yet it semith to be yn Pick- 
ering Lithe, for the Castelle of Scardeburg is countid of 
the jurisdiction of Pickering, and the shore from Scarde- 
burg to the very point of Philaw-bridge ,* by the Se about 
vj miles from Scardeburg toward Bridlington is of Pick- 
* Filey-Bridge. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



ering Lithe jurisdiction. Scardeburg, where it is not 
defendid by the Wrath and the Se is waiilled a little with 
ston, but most with ditches and walls of yerth. In the 
toune to entre by land be but 2 gates ; Newburgh gate, 
meatly good, and Aldeburgh gate *, very base. The toune 
stondith hole f on a slaty clifFe ; and shoith very fair to the 
Se side. There is but one Paroche ChirchJ in the town, 
of our Lady, joyning almost to the Castelle : it is very 
faire, and isled on the sides, and cross isled, and hath an- 
cient towers for belles with Pyramides on them : whereof 2 
toures be at the west end of the Church, and one in the 
middle of the cross isle. There is a great chapelle § by side 
of Newborow Gate. There were yn the Toun three howsis 
of Freres, Gray, Blake, and White. At the South Est 
point of Scarburgh Toun, by the shore, is a Bulwark, now 
yn ruin by the Se rage, made by K-ichard the Third, that 
lay awhile at Scardeburg Castelle, and beside began to 
waul a piece of the Toun quadrato saxo.H There cummith 
by South Est of the Bulwark, a rill of fresch water, || and 
so goith into the Se. I hard there of an old mariner, that 
Henry the first gave great privilege to the Town of Scarde- 
burg. The Peere whereby socour is made for shippes is 
now sore decayid, and that almost in the middle of it." 

* When the road near Awborough-gate was widened in 1806, the 
foundation of a Bastion, or Watch-tower, of twelve feet diameter, 
was discovered on each side of the gat«. 

t Wholly. t St. Mary's, § St. Thomas's. 

IT Squared Stone.— This wall extended from the north-end of 
Awbro'-street to St. Thomas-street, and was taken down in 1817. 

II The Mill-beck. 

b4 



SCARBRO GUIDE. 



MUNICIPAL HISTORY. 

Scarboiough claims to be a borougli by prescription, 
that is to say in virtue of immemorial customs and privi- 
leges ; and it is clear from authentic records, that it recei- 
ved a charter of enfranchisement as early as the reign of 
Henry II., 1181, wherein a still earlier grant by Henry I. 
is indistinctly referred to. The charter of Henry II. 
inspected and confirmed by his successors, grants unto the 
burgesses of Scarborough, all the same customs, liberties, 
and acquittances which the citizens of York enjoyed 
throughout the land, in the time of Henry I. 

There appears to have been but two interruptions to the 
ancient constitution of the borough ; the one in the reign 
of Richard III., who appointed a mayor, sheriff, and twelve 
aldermen, and also granted that the town of Scarborough, 
and manor of Falsgrave, should be one entire county of 
itself: the other in the reign of Charles II., who incorpo- 
rated forty- four persons (the same number as the bailiffs 
and burgesses had previously been,) under the titles of 
mayor, twelve aldermen, and thirty-one common council- 
men ; both these changes were of short duration. 

The ancient corporation of Scarborough consisted of two 
bailiffs, two coroners, four chamberlains, and thirty-six 
common councilmen ; the latter were classed in three 
benches, or twelves, denominated the first, second, and 
third. The two bailiffs were justices of the peace, and 
had exclusive jurisdiction within the borough. This form 
of the corporation continued until the passing of the mu- 
nicipal act, 183d. By this Act the civil government of 



SCAKBRO* GUIDE. 



9 



the town is vested in a council of six aldermen, 
and eighteen comraon-councilmen, periodically elected by 
the burgesses or ratepayers. These annually elect a 
mayor from their own body. The magistrates for the 
borough, are the mayor, and five justices of the peace* 
appointed by royal commission. The power of holding 
quarter sessions is vested solely in the recorder, who 
also presides in the court of pleas. 

The arms of the borough bear the marks of great anti- 
quity. A watch tower, or castle — a ship of the rudest 
form — and a star appear on the common seal, with the in- 
scription or legend, — " Sigilum commune burgensium 
DE ScABDEBURG," in the Saxon or Lombardic character. 




10 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



PARLIAMENTARY HISTORY. 

Scarborough is one of the most ancient boroughs in the 
kingdom. It was distinctly summoned to send members to 
the parliment of 1282, in the reign of Edward I., (being 
the first time any city or borough was summoned by name,) 
and has continued to enjoy this privilege without interrup- 
tion since that period. Until the passing of the reform 
bill, the election of members was confined to the corpora- 
tion. It is now extended to the ten pound householders. 
The number of registered voters at the present time 
is 670. 






CHAPTER 11. 

THE CASTLE. 




=^b 



HE principal road leading to this 
venerable pile is situated on the 
northern side of the town, run- 
ning in an eastern direction 
along the tops of St. Thomas 
Street, (late Tanner Street,) 
Queen Street, &c. This road is easily reached from 
Newborough Street, (the street leading from the principal 
entrance, the one by the York road into the town,) by 
ascending either of the streets we have named. * 

♦ Nearly all the streets branching from the central parts of the 
town, which take a northerly direction, conduct to this road. 
This 'will appear more fully >n the sequel. 



12 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



It would exceed the limits of our work to enter into 
a detailed historical narrative of the castle. A brief 
notice must suffice. Its erection was commenced in the 
year 1136, in the reign of Stephen, by William, Earl of 
Albemarle, a nobleman of Norman extraction, who hav- 
ing extensive demesnes in this part of Yorkshire and in 
Holderness, obtained permission of the king to build a 
castle on the sea coast. William of Newburg, a monkish 
historian, who wrote about the year 1190, gives the 
following description of the castle. — " A rock of won- 
derful height and bigness, and inaccessible by reason 
of steep craggs almost on every side, stands into 
the sea, which quite surrounds it, but in one place, 
where a narrow slip of land gives access to it on the 
west. It has on the top a pleasant plain, grassy and 
spacious, of about sixty acres* or upwards, and a little 
well of fresh water springing from a rock in it. In the 
very entry, which puts one to some pains to get up, stands 
a stately tower, and beneath the entry the city begins, 
spreading its two sides south and north, and carrying 
its front westward, where it is fortified with a wall : but 
on the east is fenced by that rock where the castle 
stands ; and lastly on both sides by the sea. William, 
surnamed le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, 
observing this place to be fitly situated for building a 

* The present area of the castle yard is no more than seventeen 
acres, ten perches. The rock, on which the castle is built, has 
wasted away during the course of ages : but there may probably 
be some mistake in Newburg's account respecting the quantity of 
land, as the ancient accounts of acres are very incorrect. The 
ancient were probably larger than modem acres, and it is very 
probable that the word " Sexaginta," (sixtv) has crept in for 
Sexdecem (sixteen). 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 13 



ciistle on, increased the natural strength of it by a very 
costly work, having enclosed all the plain upon the rock 
with a wall, and built a tower in the entrance. But 
this being decayed and fallen by the weight of too much 
age, king Henry II. commanded a great and brave castle 
to be built upon the same spot; for he had novv redu- 
ced the nobility of England, who during the loose reign 
of king Stephen had impaired the revenues of the crown ; 
but especially this William of Albemarle, who lorded it 
over these parts, and kept this place as his own " 

Leland, in his Itinerary, gives the following "account : 
— *' At the est end of the toune, on the one poynt of 
the bosom of the Se, where the Harborow for shippes 
is, stondith an exceeding goodly larg and stronge Cas- 
telle on a stepe rock, ha^dng but one way, by the stepe 
slaty crag, to cum to it. And or ever a man can entre 
aream Castelli there be two tours, and bet-wixt each of 
them a Draw-brid, having stepe rocks on each side of 
them. In the first court is the Arx and three tours on 
a row, and then yoinith a wall to them, as an arme 
down from the first courte to the point of the Se cliff, 
conteining in it vj toures whereof the second is square, 
and full of longgings (lodgings), and is called the Queen's 
Toure or Lodging. "Without the first Area is a great 
Grene, conteyning (to reken down to the very shore) 
sixteen acres, and yn it is a Chapelle, and beside olde 
waulles of houses of office that stood there. But of all 
the Castelle the Arx is the eldest and strongest part. 
The entry of the castele betwixt the draw-bridges is such, 
that with costes the Se might cum round about the 



14 SCAllBRO' GUIDE. 



Castelle,* the which standith as a little foreland or 
poynt betwixt 2 baayes." It subsequently passed through 
all the Ticissitudes of the unsettled periods of feudalism, 
and the troublesome times of civil commotion. Its ample 
battlements have, at one time, afforded shelter to the 
friends of royalty, and at another, has been the strong 
hold of its enemies. During the Parliamentary wars it 
was twice the subject of siege ; first in the year 1645, 
and again in 1648. It has been visited since its erec 
tion by several of the sovereigns of England. Gaveston, 
the favorite of Edward II., was left by that monarch, 
on h*s return from the north, as governor of the castle, 
where he was taken by the hostile forces of the Earl of 
Pembroke. It was probably dismantled by order of the 
government about, the year 1648—49. 

The lofty promontory on which the ruins of this an- 
cient castle are situated, is bounded on three sides by the 
ocean, and elevated nearly three hundred feet above the 
level of the sea ; presenting to the north, the east, and the 
south, a vast sweep of craggy perpendicular rocks, totally 
inaccesible. The area of the land inclosed wiihiu its 
walls, is variously estimated from fifteen to rather more 
than seventeeen acres; which latter estimate is probably 
the most accurate. The tremendous appearance from its 
aspiring summit perfectly assimulates to the description of 
Dover Cliffs, by the inimitable pen of Shakespere : — 



* It seems impracticable to insulate the castle in this manner, 
as the fosse or ditch is such a considerable height above the 
level of the sea ; ai least, it would be an undertaking of immense 
labour and difficulty. 



SCABBRO' GUIDE. 15 

"How fearful, 
And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eye so low ! 
The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air, 
Show scarce so gi-oss as beetles— 
The fishermen, who walk upon the beach, 
Appear like mice ; and yon tall anchoring bark 
Diminished to her skiff, her skiff a buoy 
Almost too small for sight.— The murmuring surge, 
That on the unnumber'd pebbles idly chafes. 
Can scarce be heard so high," 

Its western aspect is bold and majestic. A high steep 
and rocky slope, thinly covered with verdure, commands 
the town and the bay, by its superior elevation. The ap- 
proach to the castle is by the gateway on the summit of a 
narrow isthmus, on the western side above the town. 
Within this gate, the north and south walls of the castle 
form an angular projection,* The outwork, or corps de 
garde ^ which is without the ditch, with which it commu, 
nicaled by a draw bridge, forms the entrance of the castle- 
and is what was anciently called the barbican. Within 
the gate, is now an advanced battery of two twelve pound- 
er carronades, and a few yards beyond was the draw- 
bridge, removed in 1818, and replaced by a stone arch, 
under which is a deep and perpendicular fosse. This fosse, 
or dyke, continues southward along the foot of the western 
c^eclivity of the castle-hill, the whole length of the wall, 
ieyond the bridge, on the right, is a part of the wall o* 
the ballium, to which there is a little acclivity ; and here 



* At the western point of this projection, without the walls, is 
an outwork on an eminence, which was a battery at the siege of 
the castle, in 1034, mounting seven guas, and was called Bushel's 
battery, from Captain Bushel, an officer of the garrison. 



16 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



rises a stately tower, majestic even in ruin. This tower, 
which has been the keep, is a very lofty square Norman 
huilding, each side measuring (exclusive of the projection 
of the base,) fifty-four feet, the height ninety-seven feet, 
and it has formerly had an embattled parapet. The walls 
are about twelvf* feet thick, cased with square stones, and 
inclose a narrow staircase, now broken " and interrupted ; 
and the mortar having been mixed in a fluid state, accor- 
ding to the custom of the ancients, has received a consis- 
tency by age, that renders it more impenetrable and durable 
than even the stone of the building. There appears to 
have been three stories of very lofty rooms, one over ano- 
ther, each room between twenty or thirty feet high, and 
ten yards square vdthin the walls, with recesses. The 
remains of a very large fire place are visible in the lower 
apartment. The subterraneous room, or dungeon, is near- 
ly filled up with stones and earth. The different stories 
have been vaulted, and divided by strong arches : and 
private passages formerly communicating with the stair- 
cases, are visible in some of the intervals of the casings of 
the walls. The windows divided by round mullions, are in 
semicircular arched recesses, and are larger than usual in 
such buildings. They were converted during the late war 
into magazines for gunpowder, and held five hundred bar- 
rels. The area of the ballium, where the tower is situated 
contains more than half an acre of ground, and is separated 
from the internal parts of the castle yard, by a ditch and 
mound, surmounted with a wall. On the wall in front is 
the beacon, and a little removed from it, a battery of one 
gun, mounted on a traversing platform. About fifteen 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 17 



yards to the east of the beacon, was a deep well, but whence 
it was supplied with water, cannot at present be ascer- 
tained. The embattled wall, which has defended and 
adorned the summit of the hill on the western side, con- 
tinues hence to the southern extremity of the castle yard. 
The barracks, situated along the western wall, are modern, 
having been erected in the year 1746, by order of the Duke 
of Montague, master general of the ordnance. They will 
contain one hundred and twenty soldiers in twelve apart- 
ments, besides which there are others for officers. 

On the south-east point of the castle yard, upon a 
projecting plain, some distance below its summit facing 
the bay and. the haven, at a convenient height above the 
level of the sea, is a battery called the '^ south steel," 
erected in 1643, and rebuilt in 1748, when ten guns, 
eighteen pounders, one of which was placed on a traversing 
platform, were placed therein. A covered way, descending 
from the castle yard by a flight of steps, leads down to this 
battery, which is the principal defence of the town to the 
soiith ; and, from its favoured situation, is in some degree 
formidable. Here is also a store-house with a guard-j-oom, 
and a magazine where ammunition for cannon is deposited. 
Several old cannon balls that were found lodged in the 
earth and walls of the castle, some time after the siege, are 
also preserved here. Under an arched vault in the castle 
yard, near the ruins of the ancient chapel, there is a 
reservoir of water called the " lady's well," supposed to be 
the spring mentioned by old historians, and to have been 
consecrated in the days of superstition to the Virgin 
Mary. This reservoir when filled, contains about forty 
c 



18 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



tons of water, which is very transparent, and has been 
found by experiment, to weigh lighter by one ounce in 
the "Winchester gallon, than any other water in the 
vicinity. 

The splendid prospect from this elevated cliff, which by 
its unrivalled charms, relieves the eye and exhilarates the 
mind, defies language to pourtray — the diversified scenes 
of the surrounding country ; the romantic appearance of 
the town ; the sands enlivened by various objects ; and 
the unbounded view of the ocean, form an assemblage 
beautiful beyond description. Few prospects are better 
calculated to call to mind the words of the poet Milton : — 

" These are thy glorious works, Parent of good ! 
Almighty ! thine this universal frame, 
Thus wonderous fair; thyself how wonderous then; 
Unspeakable ! who sit'st above these heavens 
To us invisible, or dimly seen 
In these tby lower works ; yet these declare 
Thy goodness beyond all thought, and power divine." 

ST. MARY^S CHURCH. 

Turning from these mouldering remains of bygone 
periods, a building consecrated to the worship of Almighty 
God, scarcely less interesting for its antiquity awaits us. 
This sacred building, which has the appearance of a 
conventual church, was erected as early as the twelfth 
century, in the reign of king Stephen. The ruins still 
standing at the eastern part of the church, the dismem- 
bered appearance of the western end, and the great 
quantity of foundation stones discovered in the burial 
ground contiguous to it, are sufficient proofs, that it 



SCARBRO* GUIDE. 19 



shows in its present state, only the remains of a much 
larger edifice. The architecture of the west end of the 
church is Anglo-Norman, a style characteristic of the 
twelfth century. From Leland's *' Itinerary," it appears, 
that previous to the reformation, the church was adorned 
with three handsome towers, two of which were at the 
west-end,* and one was over the centre of the transept. 
The desolation which this venerable edifice sustained 
during the seige of the castle, and by the subsequent fall 
of the transept tower,f reduced it to a state of ruin ; and 
the inhabitants, by a succession of calamitous events, had 
suffered so severely, that they were under the necessity 
of having recourse to a brief, in the year 1660, xii. 
Charles II., to enable them to rebuild it. By the 
assistance of this brief, and other contributions, part of 
the body of St. Mary's Church, and the tower as it now 
stands, were rebuilt in 1669, on the foundation and ruin of 
the old fabric, and the north isle was added. The organ 
was erected in 1763, and the clock, 1701. The present 
steeple occupies the place af the transept tower, and the 
grammar school-house is formed on the remains of the 
south transept, which was formerly denominated " Farrar's 
aisle." There are no remains of the north transept, except 
its western wall, which terminates the present north aisle, 

* The clustering pillars near the present font appear, from 
their great strength, to have been built to sustain the two western 
towers. 

t The centre or transept tower having been greatly shaken 
during the seige of the castle, in 1645, fell in October. 1659, and 
considerably injured a great part of the nave of the church The 
extent of the damage which it occasioned, may be seen by 
the imperfect junction of one of the arches in the nave, near 
the pulpit. 



c2 



20 SCARBRO* GUIDE. 



and exhibits vestiges of a gothic window. To the east of 
the centre or transept tower, was the choir, the extent of 
which (eastward) is defined by the ruins of a gothic tower. 
There appears also to have been side aisles to the chancel, 
but the foundation of the outer wall on the north of the 
choir, can only be traced. The one on the south had five 
gothic windows, which were in a state of delapidation from 
the time of the siege, until the beginning of the last 
century, when they were entirely removed. Gent, who 
wrote in 1734, states, " That the spacious chancel, or east 
part, which is now roofless, has nothing to set it off, 
except a pomp in ruins, denoting its former magnificence." 
No part of the old choir is now remaining, except the ruin 
of the west end, which is hastening to decay.* The 
southern part of the building attached to the nave seems 
to have, in some degree, escaped the injury sustained by 
the other parts, as some of the remains of the chantries, 
and also of the stone basins for the consecrated water, are 
still visible under the arched recesses adjoining the south 
aisle. On the south side of the church, (between the 
porch and the school,) are four arched recesses projecting 
into the church yard ; these were originally four chantries, 
founded as chapels, or places of prayer for the souls of the 
deceased : they are now open to the south aisle, and form 
part of the body of the church. There has long been a 
general wish that some steps should be taken to restore this 
once splendid edifice to somewhat of its former beauty and 
magnificence, or at least to rescue it from its present neg. 
lected and degraded state to a condition more worthy of the 

*The choir measured in length 115 feet; in breadth, 29 feet 
exclusive of the side-aisles, which were 12 feet each la width. 



SCARBRO* GUIDE. 21 



improving character of the town. This object is at length 
to be accomphshed, subscriptions have been entered into, 
a plan adopted, and the work will be commenced towards 
the close of the present season. The plan decided upon out 
of fourteen competitors, is one by Mr. Christian, of London, 
and will be carried out under his own superintendence ; the 
restoration is to be confined to the area of the present walls, 
the unsightly galleries stuck here and there around the 
building are to be removed, the church to be entirely re- 
pewed, the mullions and tracery of the windows to be 
restored, the nave opened and lengthened, the tower at the 
east end to be pierced with a window of stained glass, and 
other improvements effected which will both increase 
the accommodation, and render it more comfortable 
and convenient for the sacred purposes to which it 
is dedicated. The church and churchyard are crowded 
with memorials of the departed. In the former are several 
elegant monuments belonging to distinguished families of 
the town and neighbourhood; in the latter, in many cases, — • 

" Their name, their years, spelt by the unletter'd muse, 
The place of fame and elegy supply; 
And many a holy text around she strews, 
That teach the rustic moralist how to die." 

There are several roads leading from the church-yard to 
different parts of the town, but we propose leaving by the 
gate at which we entered. Continuing, then, our walk 
from the castle, we pass on the right, several elegant houses, 
recently erected, having on our left, the covered ropery. 
At a little distance from the church, is a large blue 
STONE, fixed in the fence- wall, on the right. There is a 
c3 



22 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



traditionary report, that the first market-place * was 
situated in this part, and that this stone, which has 
continued for ages, was the place where public bargains 
were ratified and discharged ; it being the custom in those 
days, to pay the money for the goods bought in the 
market, upon a stone, in the presence of several witnesses. 
The northern extremity of Tollergate, a street situated a 
little lower down, on the left, has communicated with 
this market place, and may have derived its name from 
being the place appointed to collect the tolls. 
The next object that claims attention, is the 

LANCASTERIAN SCHOOLS, 

situated on the right. These commodious school-rooms^ 
capable of containing upwards of four hundred children, 
were built in 1810. The institution has been promoted 
by a voluntary subscription of the inhabitants. It is 
under the direction of a committee annually elected, the 
members of which are assiduously attentive to the 
advancement of the institution. The present number 
of children in the schools are, boys, 215 : girls, 134 ; 
total, 349. Leaving these schools, we pass on the left 
the end of Tollergate, already named. On the right, a 
little lower down, is 

WILSON'S MARINERS' ASYLUM. 

This asylum, the building of which was commenced in 

1836, contains fourteen houses, of two rooms each. They 

* This appears to be confirmed by an ancient deed, late in 
the possession of the executors of Mr. John Parkin, which statea 
that one of the fields now adjoining the rope-walk, then butted 
upon the market^street on the north. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 23 



are intended for tlie use of decayed mariners, and were 
erected at a cost of nearly four thousand pounds, by the 
late Richard Wilson, Esq. The first occupants were 
appointed by the benevolent founder. By his will, he has 
bequeathed a sum sufficient to keep the building in repair » 
and to allow each occupant a small annuity. This sum is 
left under the care of fifteen trustees, who are also em- 
powered to fill up all vacancies. 

On the left, immediately opposite, is Auborough- 
Street. This street formed the boundary of the old town, 
the western wall of which, as already stated, extended 
from this part through Cross-street, to Elands* cliff. One 
of the ancient gates of the town was here erected, and its 
condition, early in the sixteenth century, was described by 
Leland, in his " Itinerary," as "very base." When the 
road near this gate was widened in 1806, the foundation 0£ 
a bastion, or watchtower, of twelve feet diameter was dis- 
covered on each side of the gate. 

The next object of interest at which we arrive, is 

THE AMICABLE SOCIETY'S SCHOOLS. 

The amicable society, established for clothing and edu- 
cating the children of the poor of Scarborough, is a most 
useful institution. The schools of this society were built 
in 1817, at the cost of £1200, on ground given by the cor- 
poration. They contain, besides the school rooms, apart- 
ments for the master and mistress. The society was 
founded in the year 1729, and is imder the government of 
a president, four trustees, and four wardens, annually 
elected. The fund for the support of this institution, 
c 4 



24 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



arises from annual subscriptions of the members, collections 
made in the churches, and other voluntary donations and 
bequests. The number of children thus clothed and edu- 
cated, now in the schools is 80 ; and the number of mem- 
bers, 300. The late Robert North, Esq., a gentleman of 
liberal education, and exemplary benevolence and piety, 
was the principal founder of this society. 

NATIONAL SCHOOLS. 

The national school for girls, erected in 1836, is situated 
nearly apposite to the amicable society's schools. The one 
for boys, situated immediately below these schools, was 
erected in 1837, on a plot of ground granted by the corpo- 
ration, at the top of Queen-street. An endowment of £300 
was made to this institution, by Lord Feversham, in 1837. 
The schools, which are conducted on the principles of the 
Church of England, are well attended. 

THE MERCHANT SEAMAN^S HOSPITAL, 

built in 1752, is a spacious building, consisting of a centre 
and two wings, situated on the right, a little further on the 
road, with a court in front. It contains twenty-five sepa- 
rate apartments, for the accommodation of as many aged 
seamen, belonging to Scarborough. It is under the 
management of fifteen trustees, annually chosen by the 
owners and masters of ships belonging to the port of Scar- 
borough. The funds arise from the duty of sixpence a 
month, collected out of the wages of every seaman belong* 



SCARBPvO' GUIDE. 25 



ing to the port. The amount of revenue derived from this 
source, varies from £170 to £200 a year. 
Nearly opposite to this Hospital, is the 

BOROUGH GAOL, 

Erected in the year 1842. Quarter sessions for the 
borough are held before the Recorder, in the months of 
January, April, July, and October. 

To the right, turning the end of the Merchant Seaman's 
Hospital, is the road leading to the north sands, where is 
situated the 

NORTH MARINE TERRACE, 

a line of elegant houses, (chiefly lodging houses,) very 
recently erected, and to which additions are constantly 
being made. The prospect which the above site commands 
of the castle, north sands, and of an almost unlimited 
extent of the ocean, is most delightful ; and the breezes 
inhaled here from the sea, are refreshing and invigorating. 
Retracing our steps to the Merchant Seaman's Hospital, 
the road leads nearly opposite down St. Thomas Street, to 
Newborough Street, from which we started. 





CHAPTEE in. 




AViNG now mastered the most interesting 
features of the castle, and the road lead- 
ing directly from it, the reader will be 
prepared to accompany us to the interior 
I portions of the old town. Descending to 
the foot of Newborough-street, on the 
right is Bland's Cliff, a steep descent to the shore, made 
by Mr. John Bland, a merchant of the town, about the 
year 1722. In the front is Carr Street, and to the 



SCAKBRO' GUIDE. 27 



left is Cross Street, along which we propose to continue 
our walk. Several of the houses in this street are built 
upon the ruins of the ancient wa,ll, which defended the 
town on the west. Arriving at the top, we have on 
the left. Friar's Entry, leading forward to Queen-street, 
formerly called Black Friargate. These names are derived 
from the convent of dominican, or black friars, formerly 
established in this part of the town. In a direct line with 
Cross-street, is Auborough Street, already named. On 
the left, in descending this street, is the 

ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, 

erected chiefly through the exertions of the Rev. W. Cogh- 
lan, in the year 1809, capable of containing four hundred 
persons. In the year 1839, this chapel underwent a series 
of repairs, and interior decorations, under the superinten- 
dence of H. S. Bulmer, Esq. These have given to the 
interior an appearance of peculiar neatness and elegance. 
Order of the services, Sundays, mass sung at half-past ten ; 
vespers chanted at half-past six ; on week days, mass at 
half-past eight. 

Leaving Auborough street, we pass along High West 
Gate, situated in a line with Friar's entry. At the termi- 
nation of this street, is Toller Gate on the left, and 
DuMPLE Street on the right. In a small court, in the 
latter street, called Batly place, is 

THE TABERNACLE. 

This is the chapel of the "Wesley an Associati m Metho- 
dists, built in 1831, and will seat upwards of five hundred 



28 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



persons. Order of the services : — Sundays, prayer meeting 
at seveu o'clock; sermon at half-past ten in the morning, 
two in the afternoon, and six in the evening ; sermon on 
Wednesday evening at seven o'clock. From High West- 
gate, the road is continued along Long Westgate. 
This street proceeds a considerable length, terminating at 
Castlegate, whence the road leads on the left to the 
castle and castle dykes. On the left, not far from the 
entrance, is 



EBENEZER CHAPEL. 

The dimensions of this neat and commodious chapel 
(more generally known as the Baptist chapel,) is sixty 
four feet by fifty three. It was built in 1826, at a cost of 
more than £2,600 ; and will seat from nine hundred to a 
thousand persons. The first chapel belonging to this body 
was built near the present site, in the year 1776. The 
late venerable William Hague, may, with great propriety, 
be called the founder of the baptists in Scarborough, as 
there were none of that denomination in this place, pre- 
viously to his first ministry in 1767, in a room near the 
sands. The venerable founder of this society, who preached 
the gospel more than half a century, with a large share 
of zeal and simplicity, died 22nd October, 1831, aged 
92 years. The Rev. B. Evans has been pastor since 1826. 
Order of the services : — Sundays, at half-past ten in the 
morning, and six in the evening; and on Wednesdays 
at seven. 
Proceeding a little further, we arrive, on the right. 



SCARBKO' GUIDE. ^9 



the opening into Cook's Row, down which we / proceed. 
Passing on the right down this street, are 

TAYLOR'S FREE DWELLINGS, 

one of the numerous charities with which the town is 
privileged The building is a small brick structure, con- 
taining fourteen sets of apartments. They were erected 
out of a legacy of £1,000, left by Mr. Joseph Taylor, in 
1810, and were intended as an asylum, rent free for aged 
and respectable poor, being inhabitants of Scarborough. 
The same testator also devised the sum of £100, the 
interest of which is applied to the education of poor 
children ; with the rent of a field of three acres, to be 
expended in the purchase of coals for gratuitous distribu- 
tion among the poor in winter. An endowment of £800 
has also been left to this charity by Mrs. H. Mennel, a 
relative of the original testator. At the end of these 
dwellings, is the 

SCHOOL OF INDUSTRY. 

This institution, founded in 1808, is under the patronage 
of the ladies of Scarborough, who have ever manifested an 
ardent desire for the improvement of the lower orders of 
their own sex. The present number of girls in the school 
is about 80 ; who not only receive instruction adapted to 
raise their moral character, but to fit them for the 
domestic circle in which they will probably move. 

Arrived at the termination of Cook's Row, we find a 
little further on our right, by the side of the lower conduit 



30 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



the remains of a very ancient market cross, of which au 
engraving is given at the end. This cross is mentioned 
frequently in the corporation records as the ** Butter 
Cross," and proclamations continue to be made here. 

The street (West Sandgate) which passes the angle 
where the conduit is fixed, conducts to the harbour. We 
prefer pursuing the road to the right, from Cook's Row, 
which leads into St. Sepulchre Street. The name of 
this street is, in all probability, derived from the church 
and convent of the Franciscan, or Grey Friars, erected at 
the beginning of the fourteenth century. This church was 
dedicated by commiasion, issued on the 20th of March, 
1306, to the Holy Sepulchre. Its site was between the 
Friend's Meeting House, and the street. We have 
scarcely entered this street, before we arrive at the 

INFANT SCHOOL, 

situated on the left hand. One of these important institu- 
tions was formed in Scarborough about 1827, under a com- 
mittee of management of ladies and gentlemen. The 
number of children at present on the book is 175 ; in 
attendance from 150 to 160. A little further on the same 
side, is the 



INDEPENDENT CHAPEL. 

This was first erected in the year 1703, and was 
probably then a presbyterian place of worship. The Rev. 
William Hannah was the first minister, and continued 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 3 L 



until 1725. He was succeeded by the Rev. W. Whitaker, 
who officiated until the year 1773, when through age and 
many infirmities, he was under the necessity of declining 
the ministry. At that period the Rev. Samuel Bottomley 
was invited to succeed him. The novelty, zeal and ability 
of this preacher, greatly increased the congregation ; so 
that in the year 1774, it was found necessary to rebuild 
and enlarge the place of worship. In 1801, it was enlarged 
a second time, and will now seat five hundred persons. 
Mr. Bottomley died the 13th of February, 1831, and was 
succeeded by the Rev. G. B. Kidd, the present minister. 
Order of services : — Sunday, sermon at half-past ten o'clock 
in the morning ; and a sermon at half-past six in the 
evening. Thursday evening, sermon at seven. 

Nearly opposite to this chapel, is the entrance to the 

FRIENDS' MEETING HOUSE. 

It is a neat plain building, erected in the year 1801. 
Part of the ground surrounding it, is used as a place of 
interment, and the other part is a garden. Their first 
establishment in Scarborough was in the year 1651. Their 
founder, John Fox, suffered a long imprisonment in Scar- 
borough castle. Services : — Sundays, morning and even- 
ing ; and every Wednesday morning. On the same side 
of the street, is the 

PRIMITIVE METHODIST CHAPEL. 

It was built in 1821, and enlarged in 1840. It will 
seat upwards of six hundred persons. Order of services : — ^' 



32 SCARBHO' GUIDE. 



Sunday moining at half-past ten; afternoon at two; 
evening at six. Friday evening at seven. Prayer meet- 
ings, Sec, nearly every evening in the week. 
On the opposite side of the street is the 

TEINITY HOUSE. 

This institution is mentioned by Thoresly, in his 
'' Diary,'* so early as 1682, and was without doubt, 
founded much earlier. The old building, which from age 
was hastening to decay, was removed in 1832, and the 
present elegant structure erected on its site. The present 
building, which contains comfortable apartments for the 
inmates, and a commodious board-room for the use of 
the trustees, was opened for the purposes of the institution 
in 1833. 

At the top of St. Sepulchre street, we turn to the left, 
the road leading past the end of Carr-street. to Merchants* 
Row, There are few greater improvements in the town, 
than the widening of this now commodious thoroughfare. 
Until the year 1843, it was so narrow and inconvenient, as 
to render it extremely unpleasant to persons passing along 
it. At the end of this street, the road turns to the right, 
down the termination of West Sandgate, to the sands and 
harbour. On the sands is the 

FISH MAKKET. 

In a plentiful season, there is a great variety, viz., cod, 
liiig, halibut, turbut, skate, soles, haddocks, herrings, 
lobsters, crabs, &c. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 33 



THE PIERS AND HARBOUR. 

The^iers and harbour of Scarborough, have for many 
centuries been deemed of such consequence to the northern 
trade on this side of the island, that in the days of our 
ancient kings, various grants were made for their main- 
tenence and security. Henry III. in the thirty sixth year 
of his reign, by a patent roll, dated 26th July, 1252, 
granted particular duties for the benefit of the town of 
Scarborough, to make a certain port with timber and stone 
towards the sea. The contracted and dangerous state of 
the old harbour, and the insufficiency of the ancient pier 
being represented to parliament, an act was passed in 
1732, for enlarging the pier and harbour. In consequence 
of this act, an experienced engineer was employed, who 
proposed an additional work to the old pier, from near the 
locker-house westward, and curving onward to the sea at 
the extremity. The whole of this pier is still distin- 
guished by the name of the Old Pier, though some, with 
more propriety, call the additional new work, from the 
name of the engineer who finished it, " Vincent's Pier." 
It is easily distinguished by the lighthouse, and other 
buildings erected at the end of it. During the slow 
progress of the extension of " Vincent's pier," the harbour 
was truly dangerous ; being little superior in point of 
safety to the open sea. In the year 1763, the force of the 
sea, in a violent gale of wind, made a breach near the 
lock-house, and the waves passing through, many ships 

D 



34 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



were washed out of the harbour, and driven upon the 
rocks to the southward of the spa. On the evening of 
New Year's day, 1767, another storm suddenly arose, by 
which all the ships were broken loose from their winter 
moorings, and a new vessel was washed ojff the stocks. 
These and similar occurrences proving the necessity of 
some further security, it was judged expedient to build a 
new pier, extending from the foot of the castle cliff, and 
sweeping into the sea with a laige portion of a circle. 
This was an undertaking of considerable magnitude, it 
being necessary to build it of extraordinary dimensions, 
to resist the violence of the waves in such an exposed 
situation. 

THE NEW PIER. 

The outer pier extending to the cliff, is called the New 
Pier. Its foundation at the bend, or central curvature, is 
sixty-three feet. The height on the outside is thirty feet, 
having a parapet nine feet broad, which lowering two 
courses, the remaining breadth at the top is fifteen feet six 
inches. Its extent is about four hundred and sixty yards, 
or thirteen hundred and eighty feet. The ponderous 
rocks, some of which weigh from twenty to forty tons, 
used in building the new pier, were taken from a quarry 
named the " white nabb," or ** nob,'* (an opposite point,) 
and conveyed in fiat-bottomed vessels, called ''floats." 
This quarry, about a mile beyond the spa, is a great 
natural curiosity, and worthy of observation, containing 
large masses of flat rocks, lying upon the shore in regular 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 35 



Strata, They are separated without much difficulty, are 
of a close texture, and almost impenetrable to the tool by 
their extreme hardness. The situation of the harbour 
unfortunately exposes it to be warped up with the sand, 
brought in by a succession of tides from the great bed of 
the ocean ; and the more quiescent the state of the water, 
the greater is the accumulation. In the winter of 1816-17, 
the harbour was considerably deepened by manual labour. 
The sand and rubbish so removed, was conveyed in 
lighters to a sufficient distance at sea, by which judicious 
measure an additional depth of water, from one to four 
feet was acquired. To secure this advantage, and to 
obtain safe mooring, carcases of timber and plank filled 
with large stones, were placed in a line from TVest Sand- 
gate towards the old pier, and the experiment was so far 
successful, that it was soon followed by a more permanent 
erection of stone. 

THE WESTERN PIER. 

As this pier had its origin in the manner just related, so 
its site was determined by the result, and in some degree 
by its being convenient to form there a landing or dischar- 
ging quay, for the commerce of the town. It is twenty- 
five feet broad, and one hundred and twenty yards long, 
forming an agreeable and pleasant promenade. The har- 
bour of Scarborough has its advantages and disadvantages, 
and these ought to be maturely considered by the masters 
of coasting vessels. It is allowed to be the only place of 
d2 



36 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



refuge between the Humber and Tynemouth haven, which 
can safely be entered in storms by vessels of any moderate 
draught of water. It is easy of access, and has frequently 
afforded the means of preserving many valuable ships, their 
cargoes, and navigators, in situations of the most imminent 
danger: ample testimonies of which can be furnished by 
the custom-house. It not only possesses a superior depth 
of water within the shelter of its pier, over any other tide 
haven within the preceding limits ; but from its situation 
in the recess of a bay, four miles within the usual track of 
vessels between Whitby-rock and Flamborough-head, it 
enables them in eastern gales, by the additional drift, to 
keep so much longer off the shore, and generally gives 
them the opportunity to enter at a proper time of the tide. 
In the winter season, ships on this part of the coast are 
frequently overtaken by sudden and violent gales of wind 
from the eastward, and are unable to clear the land on 
either tack. Under these circumstances of distress, this 
harbour is their only refuge from destruction ; and such 
an important advantage may justly be said to constitute its 
principal excellency. 

THE LIGHTHOUSE. 

This building was erected at the end of Vincent's pier. 
It has recently been raised a story higher, and a cupola 
added to the top. For the direction of ships wishing to 
enter the harbour, a signal flag is displayed every day at 
the top, and continues there so long as the water retains 
the depth of ten feet, a light being exhibited as a guide by 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 37 



night. A very important improvement has recently taken 
place in this part of the harbour, by an opening made in 
the old pier, over which is a neat cast-iron draw-bridge, 
and vessels can now pass from the inner to the outer har- 
bour. Nearly the whole of the pier has also been newly 
faced with stone and lengthened, and flood gates have been 
placed between this and the outer pier, which also serve 
the purpose of a bridge, from one to the other. 

THE LIFE BOAT. 

A life boat was constructed at Scarborough in the year 
1800, from Mr. Greathead's plan, and has been instrumen- 
tal in saving much property and many lives. It was built 
and supported by voluntary subscription. The present 
life boat was constructed upon improved principles in 1823, 
In addition to the life boat, there are also at Scarborough 
Captain Manby's mortar and apparatus for firing a rope 
from the shore to vessels in danger of shipwreck ; thus 
opening a means of communication with the crew, which 
may tend to the saving of their lives, there are also rockets 
for a similar purpose, invented and supplied by A. G. 
Cash, Esq. Both of these valuable means of communica^ 
ting with stranded vessels, being under the superintendence 
of the coast guard, stationed at Scorborougii. 

THE CUSTOM HOUSE 

is situated on the beach, near the western pier, 
D 3 



38 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



TKADE. 

Scarborough, though in possession of a eonvenient port, 
has a restricted commerce. The vicinity ot sterile moors, 
and a thinly peopled neighbourhood, without any water 
communication with the interior of the country, are formi- 
dable impediments to the extension of trade. Shipping 
and its dependencies are the principal bra,nches in which 
the inhabitants are most generally interested ; ship-build- 
ing forming an important object of employment, being a 
great source of emolument ; but of late years, has very 
much declined. The commerce of the port is principly 
confined to the following articles ;— Exports ; corn, butter 
in firkins, hams, bacoli, and saltfish. Imports : coals from 
Newcastle, Sunderland, &c.; timber, deals, hemp, flax and 
iron from the Baltic ; brandy and geneva, from Holland ; 
wine from Portugal, via Hull ; and groceries from London. 

Along the beach the following objects deserving of atten- 
tion present themselves : — 

GENERAL SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY. 

fronting the head of the new pier. In 1796, an infirmary 
of this kind was established at Margate, under the sanguine 
recommendation of some sixteen distinguished medical 
authorities. In 1804, five physicians and surgeons had 
been desired by the medical board of the institution, to 
examine and state its effects, reported — 

" That by the benefits which it has effected in the saving of 
limbs, by subduing the most pressing diseases of the joints; in 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 39 



conciuering inflammation of the eyes which had resisted former 
endeavours, and threatened permanent blindness; in healing 
obstinate, weakening, and distressing sores; in resolving and 
removing the evils attendant on indurated glands in various 
parts ; in restoring health and vigour from conditions of body the 
most emaciated and deplorable ; in altering, to all appearance, 
constitutions, where striking characters of a strong scrofulous 
disposition had been manifested ; and preserving the lives of 
persons seemingly at the brink of death — it had equalled their 
hope, and exceeded the promise, and declared expectations of its 
founders and early promoters." 



Such were the salutary effects of the Margate Bethesda, 
estimated upon the experience of more than eight years by 
professional gentlemen, whose names are a sufficient pane_ 
gyric. During that period, upwards of eight hundred 
patients had been admitted, of whom a great majority were 
restored to health and strength. What Margate has effec- 
ted for the south of England, Scarborough may not un- 
reasonably be presumed to efiect for the north. But the 
immediate extent of public patronage could not with any 
certainty be anticipated ; it was at first intended to furnish 
only bathing gratis, U7itil an enlarged conviction of its utility 
should have proportionally extended its funds. These 
funds are a moderate contribution from the opulent summer 
y^sitors, with the subscriptions of the nobility and gentry 
of the northern counties ; and it is hoped they vsdll be com- 
petent to meet the supply, if disbursed under constant and 
vigilant superintendence. At present, lodging and board- 
ing are allowed to patients recommended from a distance ' 
on a scale proportionate to the amount of annual subscrip 
tion 

D 



40 SCABBRO* GUIDE. 



patron. 
His Grace the Archbishop of York. 

The Mayor for the time beini^. 

His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, K.G., Lord 

Lieutenant of Derbyshire. 
The Right Honourable the Earl of Carlisle. 
The Right Honourable the Earl Fitzwilliam. 
The Right Honourable Earl de Grey. 
Sir William Cayley, Bart. 
Sir William Mordaunt Milner, Bart. 
Sir Francis Lindley Wood, Bart. 
Sir John Vanden Bempe Johnstone, Bart,, M.P. 
William Joseph Denison, Esq., MP. 

trustees. 

Sir Thomas Charles Style, Bart. 
Major-Gen. Sir F. W. Trench, K.C.H. 
The Rev. George Walter Wrangham, M.A. 
Digby Cayley. Esq. 
Peter Murary, Esq., M.D. 
William Travis, Esq., M.D. 
Thomas Weddell, Esq. 
Robert Tindall, Esq. 



SCARBRO* GUIDE. 41 

William Duesbery Thornton Duesbery, Esq. 
William Bottomley, Esq. 
Thomas Pumell, E«q. 

The Medical Gentlemen who have practised in the town, 
not less than three years, and who are Annual Sub- 
scribers of £1 and upwards. 

treasurers. 

Messrs. Woodall, Tindall, & Co. 

1|onorarp Secretary. 
Mr. John Cook. 

©ollcetor. 
Mr. W. Wood. 

A Managing Committee elected annually. 

Adjoining this Infirmary, is a commodious room 
occupied by the 

HUMANE SOCIETY. 

This Society was established at Scarborough in 1822, 
It is supported by voluntary subscriptions, and has been 
the means, under Providence, of rescuing many valuable 
lives. The Receiving House on the beach for drowned 
persons contains every apparatus and accommodation; 
and a medical committee is always ready to render 



42 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



gratuitous assistance. The funds are chiefly expended 
in rewarding the prompt and courageous exertions of those 
who hazard their own lives in the noble effort to save 
others ; and many striking instances of this kind have 
occurred. Round the corner from this room, is 

WEDDELL'S BATHS, 

erected in 1812, and are supplied with the purest water 
fresh pumped from the sea between the piers. They are 
neatly fitted up with the requisite accommodation for 
warm, cold, and shower baths. Between this part of the 
beach and the western pier, is the entrance to East 
Sand GATE, near the foot of which is 

ST. THOMAS'S CHAPEL, 

built in 1840 by private subscription, aided by a grant of 
£300 from the Incorporated Society for building churches. 
It is intended to supply the deficiency of accommoda- 
tion in the parish church for the poorer inhabitants of 
the town. It was opened for public worship on the 20th 
of December, 1840 ; it will seat six hundred persons, and 
luost of the sittings are free. 

Retracing our steps by West Sandgate and Merchants* 
Row, we arrive at Carr-street, at the top of which is 
Newborough street, which we shall continue in the next 
chapter. 



/^^^^^^^^N 




CHAPTEE IV. 

NEWBOROUGH STREET 




s pleasantly situated, and every way capa- 
ble of its purpose as a mart for business. 
The buildings are neat and modern, mostly 
fitted for shops, whose display is equal to 
the Metropolis, and are supplied with every 
article of home and foreign trade, suited to 
the usefulness of the inhabitant or visitor 
to Scarborough. When at the top of 
Newbro '-street, without the bar, looking towards the 



44 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



sea, a splendid bird's eye view is presented of the 
street as far as the dial — the castle hill — the sea — vesesls, 
&c., and a variety of moving objeets; forming a beau- 
tiful panoramic scene. 

THE MARKET 

is held on Thursdays and Saturdays (the former is the 
principal market) in Newborough-street. It is abundant- 
ly supplied with butchers' meat, poultry, fruit, vegetables, 
&c. The situation of Scaiborough might seem unfavour- 
able to the production of fine fruit ; an ample supply, 
however, of superior quality is regularly furnished by 
the gardeners of the town and neighbourhood. The 
situation of the market is extremely inconvenient. A 
good market-place is still a desideratum at Scarborough. 
At no. 60, at the foot of Newborough-street, is 

THE POST OFFICE. 

It was removed by the present post-master fromMer- 
chants'-row, where it had been situated for upwards of 
half a century. The old situation had become very incon- 
venient in consequence of the extension of the town 
westwards. This inconvenience is entirely removed by 
the present situation, which is most central and conve- 
nient. For times of arrival and departure, see appendix. 

THE MECHANICS' INSTITUTION 

is situate in this street. Of the utility of these institutions 
only one opinion can be entertained ; through their 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 45 

means, men of every class are uniting their energies to 
expand the mind and improve the morals of the labour- 
ing classes of society. The institution at Scarborough 
was established in 1830 ; it is in possession of a small 
but respectable library. From Newbrough street, branch 
off on one side. Queen-street, and St. Thomas'-street. 
In Queen-street is situated the 

WESLEY AN CHAPEL. 

The foundation of this commodious structure was laid 
in December, 1839, and the building was completed and 
opened for public worship in September, 1840. It is 
ninety-one feet long, by sixt) feet wide, and will seat 
two thousand persons. The space beneath the chapel 
is occupied with vestries, class-rooms, and apartments 
for the chapel keeper. The cost of the building, inclu- 
ding the purchase of the site, was upwards of £7000. 

Between Queen street and Cross -street, at the back of 
Newbrough-street, there was formerly a convent or priory 
of the Carmelite friars. There is an ancient drawing 
of the conventual church, in the British Museum, a copy 
of which is in the Museum at Scarborough. It appears 
to have been a small edifice with a square tower. 

THE THEATRE, 

is the only place of public amusement in the town, and 
is situated in St. Thomas-street. The manager, Mr. 
Samuel Roxby, displays great zeal and ability in con- 
ducting the performances. 



46 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



At the top of Newbrough-street is the new bar. This 
beautiful structure, is built in a castellated style, with 
four towers over a gothic arch of large dimensions in 
the centre, with a smaller one on each side for foot 
passengers, and was erected so lecently as 1843. This 
and the contiguous buildings built at the same time have 
materially improved the appearance of this part of the 
town. On the south side of Newbrough-street, branch off 
King-street und St. Nicholas'-street, late Long room street. 
The former is immediately opposite to Queen -street, and 
the latter to St. Thomas'-street. 

THE SAVINGS' BANK 

is a neat stone-fronted building in King-street. It con- 
tains offices for the transaction of business, and also a 
good room in which the committees of difierent societies, 
by permission of the trustees, meet to manage their affairs. 
This institution was established in 1818, and the amount 
at present invested is £60,000, belonging to nearly 2000 
depositors. 

THE AGRICULTURAL AND GENERAL LIBRARY. 

is on King street cliff, situated at the foot of King-street. 
This institution originated in the year 1801, in a sub- 
scription of the farmers in the neighbourhood wishing 
to form an agricultural library. It was afterwards ex- 
tended to works of a general description, and received 
a proportionate extension of patronage and support. The 
library consists of upwpvrds of 3,000 volumes. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 47 



THE NEWS ROOM 

is a part of the same building as the above library. The 
road continues along the cliff until it joins the end of 
St. Nicholas' street. This street has been much im" 
proved by the removal of a number of unsightly build- 
ings by which the entrance from' Newbrough street 
was inconveniently narrowed. It is now one of the 
best thoroughfares in the town. At the end of this 
street, next the cliff, a splendid mansion • has been 
erected by J. Woodall, Esq. The prospect is highly plea- 
sing, and corresponds well with the elaborate architec- 
ture of the building. 

THE TOWN HALL 

is a very commodious building, situated in this street. 
It is used for the holding of quarter sessions, and for 
the transaction of all corporation business. The large 
room is also frequently used by permission of the 
mayor for delivery of lectures, and for holding the 
public meetings of various societies in the town. From 
St. Nicholas' street, the road is continued in a direct 
line to 

THE CLIFF. 

The houses here have a handsome appearance, and in 
beauty of situation, stands unrivalled. As lodging houses 
they are commodious and elegant; and in the summer 



48 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



enjoy tlie most refreshing breezes from the sea. The ad 
joining terrace in front, elevated near a hundred feet 
above the sands, commands a variety of delightful pros- 
pects. At the termination of the cliifF is the 

CLIFF BRIDGE. 

The operations for erecting a bridge from the terrace 
to the opposite cliff, and opening an easy and delightful 
communication with the Spa, commenced in the year 
1826, On the 29th of November the first stone was 
laid by E. H. Hebden, Esq., senior bailiff of Scarbrough, 
and on the 19th of July following, this beautiful struc- 
ture was finished and opened to the public. The total 
length of the bridge is four hundred and fourteen feet ; 
the width thirteen feet and a half ; and the height seven- 
ty-five feet. The span of each iron arch is sixty-five 
feet, and its rise in the centre eight feet. As a walk, 
it is not only frequented during the season by a select 
company, but presents a prospect singularly striking and 
delightful. The bridge has been lately new floored and 
materially improved. Its convenience is much increased 
by the agreeable promenade walks conducting to 

THE SPA. 

The mineral waters of this celebrated spa have sup- 
ported their fame upwards of two hundred years. By- 
Dr. Wittie's account written in 1660, it appears that 
their virtues were discovered by the following accidental 
circumstance : — '' Mrs. Farrar, a sensible lady, who lived 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 49 



at Scarborough about the year 1620, sometimes walked 
along the shore, and observing the stones over which 
the water passed to have received a russet colour, and 
finding it to have an acid taste differing from the com- 
mon springs, and to receive a purple tincture from galls, 
thought it probably might have a medical property. Having 
therefore made an experiment herself, and persuaded othert 
to make the same, it was found to be efficacious in some 
complaints, and became the usual physic of the inhabitants. 
It was afterwards in great reputation with the citizens of 
York, and the gentry of the county ; and at length was so 
generally recommended, that several persons of quality 
came from a great distance to drink it ; preferring it before 
all the others they had formerly frequented, even the 
Italian, French, and German Spas." 

The waters have been frequently subjected to the process 
of analysis, the last was taken by E,. Phillips, Esq., who 
was engaged professionally for the purpose. The skill of 
Professor Phillips is so well known, that there cannot be a 
doubt of the perfect accuracy of his investigation. Accord- 
ing to this analysis, the contents of a gallon are as 
follow :— 

JfOJlTH SPRING, SOUTH SPEINQ. 

Azotic Gas 6.3 cubic inches. 7.5 

Chloride of Sodium (Common Salt) .... 23.64 grains 29.63 

Crystallized Sulphate of Magnesia 142.68 „ 325.33 

Crystallized Sulphate of Lime 104.00 „ 110.73 

Bicarbonate of Lime 48.26 „ 47.80 

Bicarbonate of Prptoxide of Iron 1.84 „ 1.81 

Temperature 49* with ver%' little variation. 



50 SCARBSO* GUIDE. 



" The effects of these waters," says a recent writer, ** are 
of a cooling and tranquilizing character, and are of appro- 
priate efiicacy for patients labouring under acidity and 
pain in the stomach" 

The first cistern for collecting the waters was built in 
1698. In the month of December, 1737, the staith of the 
spa, composed of a large body of stone bound by timber, as 
a fence against the sea, for the security of the house and 
wells, in a most extraordinary manner gave way ; and a 
great mass of the cliff, containing near an acre of pasture 
land, with the cattle grazing upon it, sunk perpendicularly 
several yards. As the ground sunk, the earth or sand 
under the cliff rose on the north and south sides of the 
staith out of its natural position, above one hundred yards 
in length; and was in some places six, and in others seven 
yards above the former level. The spa wells ascended with 
the earth or sand, but as soon as the latter began to rise, 
the water ceased running into the wells, and for a time seemed 
to be lost. The ground thus risen was twenty six yards 
broad ; and the staith, notwithstanding its immense weight, 
(computed at two thousand four hundred and sixty-three 
tons,) rose entire, twelve feet higher than its former 
position, and was forced forward to the eea about twenty 
yards. The springs of the miiieral waters were by diligent 
search afterwards recovered; and the staith being re- 
paired, the spa continued to maintain its merited reputa- 
tion. This memorable occurrence is described in the 
Philosophical Transactions as an earthquake. In 1836, 
the coast was visited by a violent storm, which carried 




^^Jd 



SCARBp,0* GUIDE. 51 



away the greater part of the staith in front of the old spa 
house, and so seriously damaged the building, as to render 
its removal unavoidable. The Cliff Bridge Company, in 
whose hands the spa is now placed, immediately set about 
restoring the damages thus sustained. A large portion of 
the cliiF was excavated, and many, of those delightful 
walks which now adorn this part of the spa promenade, 
and add so materially to the health and enjoyment of the 
visitors, were then laid out. Trees were planted in 
favourable situations, which, as they attain increased 
maturity, are annually improving this delightful spot.- 
The boundaries of the staith and promenade were at the 
same time extended; and the handsome turretted struc- 
ture, called the New Spa, erected. This building com- 
prises, besides the improved entrance to the spa wells, and 
a variety of other conveniences, 

THE SALOON 

which consists of one principal room, seventy-five feet by 
seventeen. This room is open to assemble and walk in to 
the subscribers to the cliff bridge ; and since its erection, 
has been employed as a ball-room, and for the show of the 
Floral and Horticultural Society of Sca^rborough. From 
the staith we obtain a view of the sands, and the con- 
venience for 

SEA BATHING. 

" The situation of a place for sea bathing," says Dr. 

Ilussel, in his letter to Dr. Friven on this subject, ** should 
e2 



52 5CARBR0* GUIDE. 



be clean and neat, at some distance from the opening of a 
river, that the water may be as highly loaded with sea 
salt, and the other riches of the ocean as possible, and not 
weakened by the mixing of the fresh water with its 
waves. In the next place one would choose the shore to 
be sandy and flat, for the convenience of going into the 
sea in a bathing chariot. And lastly, that the sea- shore 
should be bounded by lively cliffs and downs, to add to the 
cheerfulness of the place, and give to the person who has 
bathed, an opportunity of mounting on horseback, airy 
and clean, and pursuing such exercise as may be advised 
by his physician, after he comes out of the bath," This 
■description so well pourtrays Scarborough and its environs. 
that one might be led to suppose it was drawn upon the 
spot. No part of the British coast can offer a situation 
more convenient or delightful for the purpose of bathing. 
The bay is spacious and open to the sea ; the waves in 
general, are transparent as those in mid-ocean ; the sand, 
clean, smooth, and even ; and the ijiclination of the beach 
toward the sea scarcjely perceptible. No considerable river 
dilutes the brine ; nor is the beech so extensive as to 
become uncomfortably hot, even by the power of the 
summer's sun. llie sea is many degrees cooler in the 
month of August, than at Brighton, and possibly than at 
Weymouth, or any place south of the Thames. Bathing 
can be performed at all times of the tide, and in almost all 
kinds of weather, with security and ease. The morning, 
however, in general is the most convenient time for 
bathing, as it leaves the rest of the day for other exercises 



8CARBR0* GUIDE. 53 



and amusements. Returning by the same tract, from a 
higher part of the walks, a little before reaching the 
bridge, the road conducts to 

THE SOUTH CLIFF. 

On our ascent to this cliff, we pass on the left a singularly 
formed structure, erected in a rusticated style, at an angl« 
of the road, and fitted up in the most convenient manner 
for its intended purpose as a 

CAMERA OBSCURA. 

The delight which the beholder feels when viewing the 
Camera is extremely pleasing. Objects are brought from 
the horizon to his immediate presence, and exhibited in a 
pleasing picture, all animated with the action of life, and 
creating the utmost suprise and wonder. It is open at any 
hour of the day ; and the spirited proprietor has displayed 
great taste and talent in executing and carrying out hi« 
wished-for object, — to blend instruction with amusement. 
Arrived at the top of the cliff, a scene of indescribable beauty 
awaits us. A series of elaborately ornamented structures 
are presented, of elegant houses recently erected, mostly 
intended for lodging houses, and fitted up in a superb style. 
The whole of these beautiful mansions form a crescent, 
centred by a magnificent building, called the 

CROWN HOTEL. 

A great spirit of improvement manifested by the 

inhabitants of Scarborough, and a desire to meet the wants 
E 3 



54 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



of the increasing number of visitors, originated the splendid 
edifices which have here been erected, and which speak well 
for the enterprize and spirit displayed. The view from 
these houses, and from the promenade in front, discloses a 
scene of matchless grandeur. The boundless ocean, with 
the distant and scarcely distinguishable objects flitting 
upon its surface ; the amazing extent of craggy rocks 
which overhang its shores ; the surge murmuring upon the 
beach beneath ; the sands spread over with a galaxy of 
beauty and animation; the town, rising in majestic form from 
the crescent like bay ; the harbour, with its messengers of 
commerce, and the mouldering remains of antiquity in the 
distance, all conspire to elevate the mind, and to fill the 
soul with the sublimest subjects for meditation. The cliff 
is modernly designated ** New Scarborough ;'* on the 
surface are neat gravelled walks and drives, and pleasant 
seats. At the foot of the descent from this elevation, on 
the opposite side of the road, conducting from the town to 
the sands, is 

THE MUSEUM. 

This institution originated with the members of the 
Philosophical Society, and was erected in the year 1828» 
As this coast possesses such great facilities for the study of 
Natural History, it is a matter of suprise, that a Museum 
had not been formed at an earlier period. Efforts were 
i ndeed made, but it was not until about the year 1826, that 
a combination of circumstances seemed to open the way, and 
convinced the lovers of science that the time was come 



8CARBR0* GUIDE. 55 



when a permament building must be erected, in which the 
rich stores of the past and present world, that were scattered 
around us could be safely lodged. The munificent offer 
of T. Duesbery, Esq. to give the valuable collection of th« 
venerable historian of Scarborough, (T. Hinderwell, Esq,, 
on condition that a building should be raised, gave additional 
force to the arguments which had been before employed. 
With an energy and promptness which will not soon be 
foi gotten by those who witnessed it, Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, 
of Hackness, took up the subject ; and in connection with 
J. Dunn Esq. and others, determined upon the erection of 
a building, which is now one of the most beautiful objects, 
and certainly connected with one of the most valuable in- 
stitutions, in Scarborough. The Museum is a Rotunda of 
the Roman Doric order, thirty seven feet six inches, in 
external diameter, and fifty feet high. The basement con- 
tains, pro temporey the library, the keeper's room, and 
laboratory. When sufficient funds are obtained, it is pro- 
posed to add wings, radiating from the central building 
which will then be entirely used as a museum. The prin- 
cipal room is thirty-five feet high, and is lighted from a 
dome. It is not compatible with the design of this sketch, 
to detail the several points of beauty, which a mind fami- 
liar with architectural designs will easily discover; yet 
there are some parts so exquisitely beautiful, that it would 
be improper to pass them over. The cornice, which sur- 
rounds the building, has scarcely an equal ; and is, we are 

>ii formed, taken from the Theatre Marcellus at Rome. 
E 4 



50 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



The windows, designed mare for the admission of air than 
light, are also taken from the Gk>d Eiducolo at Rome. The 
staircase to the gallery, if we are not mistaken, is similar 
to the one in the library at the Chapter-house at York 
MitLster, the model of both, we believe, from the same 
Temple. The Society is indebted to R. H. Sharpe, Esq. , 
architect, of York, for the very chaste and classical design; 
avid although crippled in his plans by the limited resources 
of the society, yet the design has called forth the approba" 
Hon of many distinguished visitors, and will certainly hand 
down his name to posterity with honour. The circular 
plan of the building was suggested by W. Smith, Esq., 
the justly celebrated geologist, as being more capable of 
exhibiting in one simple and intelligible form, the stratifi- 
cation of the rocks of Great Britain, than could be obtained 
by «ny other metliod ; and by placing the fossils on sloping 
shelves, according to their stratagraphical order, the study 
of the once intricate science of geology would be reduced 
to the greatest degree of simplicity ; and the coloured 
sketch (in front of the gallery) of the actual stratification 
of the coast, from the Humber to the Tees, forms an 
appropriate index to the geological productions of the 
district. The cost of the building was £1300, exclusive 
of furnishing, purchasing and preparation of specimens, 
&c. The museum is supjwrted by annual subscriptions 
and contributions from the visitors ; and certainly there 
is no object in Scarborough which presents such attrac- 
tions to an intelligent and well regulated mind, as this 
depository, containing select specimens of recent subjects 



SCABBRO* GUIDE. 57 

of Natural History, as well as the relics of past ages. 
It is scarcely possible, indeed, to examine those various 
evidences of former days, without having the mind in- 
sensibly filled with the strongest impression of the inef- 
fable wisdom and unlimited power of the Creator. On 
the brow of the cliff above the museum is a row of 
elegant mansions, the exterior of which is extremely neat and 
beautiful ; they were built by Mr. Barry, and are chiefly 
intended for visitants. Leaving the museum, before us 
is the walk leading to the cliff and terrace, along which 
we proceed. On a part of the cliff, situated to the north 
of the cliff-bridge, and still called St. Nicholas' Cliff, 
was formerly situated 

ST. NICHOLAS' HOSPITAL AND CHURCH. 

This hospital appears, by an inquisition taken in the 
twenty-sixth year of Edward I., to have been of great 
antiquity and had been founded by the burgesses of 
Scarborough. The church belonging to it was erected 
so early as the reign of Henry II. There are now no 
vestiges of it to be discovered, as the land has, in the 
course of ages, considerably wasted away. In the year 
1786, the entire skeleton of a human body of large 
stature was foimd in the cliffy the teeth in the skull were 
regular and in great preservation. Several human bones 
in a regular position, were also discovered on levelling 
the terrace, in the year 1791 ; and a copper plate ap- 
pertaining to a tomb-stone, was also found in the year 



58 SCARlJPwO' GUIDE. 



1810. The inscription on tliis plate has been thus tran- 
scribed; Pater William de Thornton* A tomb- 
stone was also found in the cliff some years since, with- 
out any inscription, there was the form of the cross, with 
the chalice on one side, and the pix on the other, in 
the rudest sculpture. At the head of the cliff are sit- 
uated shops for the sale of natural curiosities found . in 
the neighbourhood. Most of these are in beautiful con- 
dition, and many of them are extremely interesting. We 
take our departure from the cliff and terrace by the road 
on our left. Nearly adjoining the cliff, at the entrance 
of this road, is 

TRAVIS'S BATHS. 

This establishment was first opened in 1798. In 1822 
it was rebuilt, and the interior fitted up with every 
attention to comfort and elegance. The baths are of 
wood and marble, and are adapted either for plunging 
sitting, or the recumbent position. They are supplied 
every tide with the purest sea water, and admit of every 
variety of temperature. Rooms are also fitted up for 
steam and vapour baths. A little further to the left is 
the entrance to Huntriss'-row, a very neat genteel 
fc.reet, in which are many agreeable and commodious 
lodging-houses. The top of this street is very little re- 



* Vide Hinderwell's History, 3rd edition, for a copy of the 
original. Father William of Thornton appears, frem Charlton's 
History of Whitby, to have been a subscribing witness to a 
charter, in the yeai- 1120. 



SCAKBKO' GUIDE. 59 

moved from the new bar, at the beginning of Newboro* 
street. Still further on the road, is 

CHAMPLEY'S BATHS. 

Theso baths are of modern structure and liave a com- 
manding situation. They possess the usual accommoda- 
tions of these establishments, with what many will con- 
ceive an additional advantage, one suite of rooms for 
ladies, and another for gentlemen. Nearly opposite, are 

HARLAND'S BATHS. 

The situation of these baths combine, as much as 
possible, privacy with convenience. One of the baths has 
been fitted up for bathing in a sitting position. Contingent 
to the original building, is a little structure containing a 
plunge bath, intended chiefly for those, who from various 
causes, are prevented from bathing in the sea. These 
baths are constantly supplied with the purest sea water. 
The only establishment in the town of this kind, not 
already named in this work, is Yickerman's Baths, 
erected in 1829, and adjoining the Marine houses, situated 
on the beach. From their contiguity to the sea, they are 
readily supplied with water, and possess similar accommo- 
dations with the other establishments of the kind. The 
path we are pursuing terminates in the public entrance 
into the town, from the Burlington road and the sands. 
I^early opposite its termination, is the entrance leading to 



60 8CABBR0' GUIDE. 

THE CRESCENT. 

These elegant houses have been built rather more than 
t\yelve years. They are so situated as to command an 
extensive view of the sea , the south cliff, and the adjacent 
country. There is convenient access from them to several 
delightful walks, which are situated in their immediate 
neighbourhood. Pursuing the public road from the sands, 
we arrive at Vebnon-place, in which is erected 

CHRIST CHURCH. 

The bleak exposed situation of St. Mary's Church, and 
the insufficiency of accommodation for the increasing popu- 
lation of the parish of Scarborough, having long been 
experienced, a petition for a new church to be built was sub- 
mitted early in 1821, to the commissioners appointed by 
parliament for building churches, with the offer that the 
inhabitants would provide a suitable site ; but from the late- 
ness of the application, and the engagements already formed 
by the board with other places, the consideration of the 
subject, at that time, was necessarily postponed. The com- 
missioners having received a further grant from parliament, 
a renewed application was made in March, 1824 ; and after 
much discussion, it was at length agreed, that on a site 
being provided, and a contribution remitted of £2,000, the 
board would undertake to erect such a church as should be 
by them thought expedient. These arangements having been 
concluded, the sum required for the site, and contributary 
aid were forthwith raised by subscription and remitted to the 



SCARRRO' GUIDE. gj 



board. On the 16th of October, 1826, the foundation stone 
was laid by the Rev. J. Kirk, M. A., the late vicar, in the 
presence of the bailiffs and a vast concourse of the visitants 
and inhabitants ; and on the 23rd of August, 1828, the 
church being completed, was consecrated for divine service 
by the Archbishop of York, attended by Archdeacon Wrang- 
ham, the Rev. M. H. Miller, vicar, and several of the 
neighbouring clergy. The-style of this edifice is Gothic, of 
the thirteenth century. The outside is faced with beautiful 
freestone, presented by Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart., 
from the Hackness quarry. The interior dimensions are 
eighty-feet in length, and fifty feet in breadth ; the height 
of the nave, or centre ceiling, is forty feet ; the tower is six- 
teen feet square within, and the total height from the ground 
to the top of the pinnacles, is one hundred and sixteen 
feet. The accomodation is calculated for thirteen hundred 
persons ; one half in pews, and the remainder in free benches 
including an upper gallery at the west end for the 
children of the charity schools. The east window, which 
consists of five narrow lancet-shaped compartments, has, 
stained glass transparencies of the Royal Arms in the centre 
the arms of the borough, and those of the Archbishop of 
York on the sides ; and those of Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, 
Bart., beneath. The total expense of the building and site 
amounted to upwards of £7,000 In 1843 a peel of three 
bells and a clock with four dials were added to this structure, 
by donations and voluntary subscription. The vicar of St. 
Mary's is the patron, and the Rev. Robert Howard is the 
first and present incumbent minister. The only endow- 



62 BCARBIIO' GUIDE. 



ment is the rental of the pews. Adjoining this church, is 

THE ODD-FELLOWS' HALL. 

This hall was erected in the year 1840, hy the order of 
Odd-Fellows in Scarborough. It is seventy-three feet 
long, by thirty feet and a half wide, and sixty feet high. 
It is built in the Grecian style of architecture, after a plan 
provided by their own body. In front, are two fluted 
Doric columns, and above these two others of the Ionic 
order, supporting the middle cornice. A shield is placed 
near the top, with part of the emblems used by the order 
in basso relievo ; and beneath is the motto, " Amicitia, 
Amor, et Veritas." The interior consists of two 
stories, the upper intended for public occasions, contains 
a large assembly room, the dimensions of which are fifty- 
eight feet in length, by twenty-seven in breadth. Besides 
this room, there is also a retiring room at one end of 
much smaller dimensions. The lower story contains 
rooms for a resident keeper, and a large cooking kitchen 
adapted to public festivities, for which purpose ic is 
occasionally let. Turning the corner of the street to our 
right, we again find ourselves at the nev/ bar, situated at 
the top of Newborough-street. A little removed to the 
back of this street, near the bar, is Waterhouse-lanb, 
at the upper part of which is situate 

ST. THOMAS' HOSPITAL. 
In the reign of Henry II ., Hugh^de Bulmere gave lands 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 63 



at Scarborough towards the founding of an hospital for 
poor men and women in this town, to the honour of St. 
Thomas the Martyr. This hospital was finished and 
endowed by the Burgesses of Scarborough, and is still under 
the direction of the corporation. It is a poor low building, 
consisting of a range of small apartments appropriated 
to the use of aged and infirm persons. The ancient custom 
of ringing a bell at six o'clock every morning and evening 
is preserved. This was originally a summons to prayer : 
but the devotional part is now disused. The workhouse 
yard and contiguous gardens are part of the premises 
belonging to the hospital : and the grounds adjacent were 
formerly the burial ground of 

ST. THOMAS' CHURCH. 

At the time of Leland's Itinerary (1538), this edifice 
is noticed as " a great chapelle by the side of Newborow 
Gate *' and appears to have been used until its demolition, 
as a chapel of ease to the parish church, for the corporation 
records shew that /owr churchwardens were, during those 
times, annually elected ; and the repairs of St Thomas* 
Church in 1642, were aflected by an assessment on the whole 
parish. During the siege of the Castle in 1 645, this church was 
converted into a magazine by Sir John Meldrum, the com- 
mander of the parliamentary forces, and was much injured 
by the firing from the garrison. In the subsequent siege 
in 1348, it is stated in the church brief, that it was •* by 
the violence of the ordnance quite ruined and battered 
down." Such was the actual state of its dclapidation, 



64 



SCABBRO* GUIDE. 



that on the 6th of February, 1649, it was ordered by the 
bailiffs and burgesses, ** that upon consideration that part 
of St. Thomas' church is already fallen, and the rest ready 
to fall ; and as much of the timber and slate are stolen 
away by evil disposed persons ; for prevention therefore of 
any further embezzlement, that the said church be taken 
down, and the materials thereof be sold to the best ad^'an- 
tage, and the monies arising therefrom be employed ia. th« 
repairs of St. Mary's church." 



SAINT MARY'S CHURCH. 




SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



65 




'^m^ 



CHAPTEE V. 

WALKS. 

HE neighbourhood of Scar- 
borough is " rich and rare," 
in nature's beauties and 
remains of former days. The 
high woodland and the mossy 
dell — the green sward and the 
sandy plain, present pleasing 
yariety. The sands are 
remarkable for being hard and dry, whereon are many 




66 SCARBRO* GUIDE. 



delightful walks, and from whence is exhibited numerous 
animated and picturesque beauties, but none create a more 
pleasing reverie, 

" Than the massive crag and mountain tower, 
Which charm the fancy's waking hour, 
And cliff so rudely piled." 
The first walk of notice along the beach, is to choose a 
proper time of tide, and visit 

CAKNELIAN BAY, 

situated rather better than two miles from the spa. It is 
a favourite retreat of those who interest themselves in the 
collection of pebbles and curiosities of that kind ; many of 
whom in the height of the season, are to be found with 
their little baskets industriously occupied with this health 
promoting employment. The stones most abundant are 
moss-agates, carnelian, and jaspers. The visitor may 
either retrace his step by the shore, or ascend the cliff 
and return along the Burlington road. A most delightful 
and much frec^uented walk, is 

THE PLANTATION. 

The entrance to this shaded retreat is a little to the 
west of the museum and cliff-bridge. The path is con- 
tinued from the entrance along a natural arbour until 
it reaches an ample sheet of water around which it is 
continued. At this point of the road is a mill and cottage, 
embossed in the graceful foliage of the trees. The walk 
from the plantation is continued through an adjoining 
meadow to the bleach-house, and enters the high road. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 67 



which is continued, on the left, to the Burlington road. 
On the right it conducts to the road leading from Fals- 
grave to Seamer. Taking the direction to the right on the 
Seamer road, we arrive at the delightful village of 

FALSGEAVE. 

This is one of the most ancient villages in the neigh- 
bourhood. It is named in Doomsday Book under the 
title of Walsgriff. Some of the houses have gardens 
tastefully disposed in front ; and much improvement has 
taken place here within the last few years, by the erection 
of elegant dwellings. There is a public garden in this 
village which abounds wiih delicious fruit when in season. 
From some parts of the garden good viev/s are obtained of 
the castle and surrounding country. 

FALSGRAVE WALK 

extends from the village to Scarborough, a distance of 
about a mile, and is greatly beautified with villas, with 
ornamental gardens in front. A line of handsome houses, 
lately erected, on the opposite side is 

WESTFIELD TEHRACE. 

The road has also lately been widened, and in other 
respects considerably improved. Midway of Falsgrave- 
walk, about a quarter of a mile from the town, is 

THE RAILWAY STATION. 

It is built of stone in the Grecian style. The neatness 

F 2 



68 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



of the exterior, and the compactness of the interior of the 
station is uniform in the extreme. Nothing can be more 
pleasing to the care-worn man of business, than a "run 
down to Scarborough by rail.'* The line is cut through a 
highly cultivated country, which tends to invigorate and 
freshen the mind. When at Falsgrave may be seen a 
singular elevation to the south, one of the most remarkable 
objects in the neighbourhood, — 

OLIVER'S MOUNT. 

The ancient name is Weaponess^ being a compound of 
weapon^ a place of defence, and ness^ a point of land. 
It obtained the present name by the supposition that 
Cromwell erected batteries here against the castle, during 
the time of the parliamentary civil wars. There formerly 
was a battery on the cliff below called Bamsdale Mount, 
which may have given rise to such surmise being at Oliver's 
Mount. The prospects from this height is most charming. 
It is near 600 feet above the level of the sea, bounded by 
bill and dale, and a scene of magnificence is presented 
therefrom. It is the admiration of all who visit it ; and 
has been spoken of as one of the finest terraces in England, 
from whence may be pictured beauty and splendour. 
Upon leaving the mount, the visitor, if he choose, can 
take the road to the west, where a path is observed leading 
to the 

TEA GARDENS, 

which are beautifully laid out, and have become a favourite 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 69 



retreat. Every requsite for rural enjoyment and pic nie 
parties are amply provided, and the views are diversified 
and pleasing. At the foot of the hill, is 

THE MERE. 

A fine sheet of water, abounding with pike perch, and 
eels ; and in proper season affords good sport to the 
angler. It is in the hands of the corporation, who will 
generally grant permission to respectable parties, who 
wish to fish there. The visitor may return by the 
Seamer-lane, either through Falsgrave or the Plantation ; 
or he may pursue the way along the side of a hill which 
conducts him into the Burlington-road, near the site of 
a Tumulus, which was opened in 1835. On the north 
side of the town, the visitor will find a retired and rustic 
spot in the opening of a valley, 

SCALBY MILL. 

This rustic place is frequented by all parties. The shade 

is most inviting, and many wished for objects concentrated 

in one view are here to be realized. The broad expanse 

of ocean — the noble ruins — the pleasant sands — the shady 

bowers, — and the romantic ideas, created by the sound of 

the water-mill, fill the mind with delight ; and the tea 

and cakes supplied by mine host, serve to heighten the 

enjoyment, which all must feel on visiting this beautiful 

place. The most agreeable manner of visiting Salby 

Mill is, to take a boat from the south sands, sailing round 
F 3 



70 SCARERO* GUIDE, 



the castle rock, and returning on the north sands, or by 
the Whitby road. 

Many rural and retired spots are in the vicinity of 
Scarborough, which are more or less gifted with a view o^ 
the mighty deep. Not more than a mile distant from the 
town, in a wild and beautiful valley down the Whitby 
Road, is 

WILSON'S WOOD, 

belonging to John Woodall, Esq. The " cool shade and 
mossy dell " here displayed is very delightful : and the 
saunterers may ruralize 

" And stay to look and and linger 
When through fragrant woodland's stroUiDg," 




SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



71 




CHAPTEE VI. 

RIDES. 



HE vicinity of Scarborough contains 

much to interest those who seek to 

extend their rambles beyond the 

limits of pedestrian exercise. We 

shall briefly describe under the above 

head, some rather more distant 

scenes than we have yet noticed. A 

most delightful ride is to the village of Hackness, the seat 
F 4 



mmm 



72 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



of Sir J. V. B. Johnstone, Bart.,M. P. for the borough 

of Scarborough. The road to this village may be taken 
along the road leading to Malton and York, as far as 
the Tillage of 

EAST AND WEST AYTON. 

These pleasantly situated villages are rather more than 
four miles from Scarborough. They are built on the 
opposite banks of the river Derwent, which is crossed by a 
modern built stone bridge. On a rising ground, a little 
removed from the village of West Ay ton, is the ruins of a 
tower which formed part of the fortified residence of the 
Evers family. The Derwent, which rises in the high 
moors, a few miles above Hackness, and flows through 
the valley of Hackness, here becomes a considerable 
stream. Fisliing in this beautiful river, (which abounds 
with trout,) was formerly free, but within the last few 
years an Angler's Club has been formed for the pre- 
servation of the fish. Visitors who desire, may obtain 
tickets entitling them to fish in the river, under certain 
restrictions, binding upon the members of the club, by 
application to the secretary, Mr. Cooper, Ayton; or to 
Mr. Westlake, Scarborough. The road from Ayton lays 
along a number of most delightful valleys which succes- 
sively open into one another. These valleys, inclosed 
between lofty hills, rising in some places almost perpen- 
dicularly and crowned with pendant woods, are profusely 
spread over with the most splendid rural scenery 
imaginable. 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 73 



HACKNESS 

is a most delightful village, situated in a beautiful valley, 
and surrounded by lofty hills. The church is a very 
ancient structure with a handsome spire. It contains a 
monument to the Lady Hilda, the foundress of Whitby 
Abbey, who retired to a cell founded here to spend the 
evening of her days. There is also a handsome monu- 
ment by Chantry, erected by G. Johnstone, Esq., to the 
memory of his amiable lady, the sister of the present 
proprietor of Hackness. The mansion is of modern date* 
It was erected by the late Sir Richard Johnstone, father 
of the present Baronet, by whom it has been recently 
enlarged. Considerabe improvements have also been 
made in the gardens and pleasure grounds, which are laid 
out with exquisite taste. The greenhouse is well stocked 
with exotic plants and flowers. With most laudable 
liberality the present proprietor allows access to respect- 
able visitors, numbers of whom annually resort thither. 
The visitor may return by way of Scalby. After pro- 
ceeding a little distance on the summit of the hill which 
he ascends in lelaving Hackness, he begins to descend 
Harebrow. From this point of the road a most delight- 
ful view is obtained of the ocean, of the town and castle 
of Scarborough, and of a large and pleasingly disposed 
extent of sylvan scenery, with the picturesque village of 

SCALBY 
beneath him. This village is named in Doomsday Book. 



74 SCARBILO' GUIDE. 



The church is an ancient structure, erected near the Hack- 
ness road. It is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and 
Chapter of Norwich, of the yearly value of £327. The 
present vicar is the Rev. J. Sedgwick, M.A. The small 
building adjoining the church is the school-room, erected 
by the Hev. C. A. Thurlow. A somewhat distant ride is 
to Robin Hood's Bay, situated about thirteen miles from 
Scarborough. The road, which is to the north, passes 
through the villages of Burniston and Cloughton. The 
former is not distinguished for any thing calling for par- 
ticular notice. Near the latter, is a quantity of ruins, 
supposed to be the remains of a British village, and a 
quarry of excellent freestone from which the material for 
building the castle was obtained. Belvoir-terrace, forming 
part of the Crescent buildings, was also bnilt with stone 
from this quarry, and also the New Station. 

HAYBURN WYKE, 

a most romantic valley, is situated a mile and a half 
beyond the last-named village. It presents to the eye of 
the traveller a most pleasing prospect of rural scenery. 
Considerable skill has been employed in the improvement 
of this most delightful retreat. Forest walks are laid out, 
and at convenient distances is placed the rustic temple and 
the inviting bower. It must be visited to ^be fully ap- 
preciated. 

STAINTON DALE. 

is the next locality of interest through which the road 



SCASBRO' GUIDE. 75 

passes. It is situated seven miles and a half from Scar- 
borough. ** It is chiefly remarkable as having been given 
by King Stephen to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John 
of Jerusalem, who had also an establishment at Scarborough 
Their institution here was annexed to the commandery of 
the Holy Trinity of Beverley ; which, like the other com- 
manderies, or convents, of these Knights, was subject to 
the grand Prior of the Order in London. The Hospital 
of the Knights, in Stainton Dale, was at a house called 
the Old Hall, near which they had a chantry, at a place 
called the Old Chapel. An adjoining eminence is named 
Bell Hill, being a place where the Knights or servants were 
wont to ring a bell and blow a horn every evening, at twi- 
light, to direct travellers and strangers to their hospitable 
mansion." 

The Peak and Stoupe Brow, situated beyond this 
vale, are the sites of extensive Alum works, the operations 
of which have been for some time suspended. Stoupe- 
brow is elevated nearly 900 feet above the level of the sea; 
and prQsents a prospect imposing and awfully grand. The 
road descends from this lofty eminence to the sands ; but 
these can only be crossed when the tide is low, to 

HOBIN HOOD'S BAY. 

This is a small fishing village, remarkable for its gro- 
tesque and romantic appearance. The cottages of the 
fishermen, situated in the clifi's, have a singularly wild 
appearance. It is only by a plank-bridge, thrown over 
the wasted parts of the rock, that a communication is 



76 SCARBBO' GUIDE. 

maintained, in some parts, between the different streets. 
About twenty years ago, several houses in this part were 
abandoned, because of their dangeiious situation, and were 
some time after washed down by the waves. The distance 
from this place to Whitby is not more than six miles. 
The most convenient way of returning to Scarborough, 
will be by taking the valley, which conducts to the high 
road from Whitby. Another delightful ride is along the 
base of the Wold Hills. The road to be pursued turns 
suddenly to the left from the vilUage of Falsgrave, and is 
continued about four miles to 

SEAMER. 

This is an ancient village, and was for a long time the 
seat of a weekly market. Continued litigation on the part 
of the burgesses of Scarborough, who complained of the 
injury their trade sustained by it, led to its suppression in 
the reign of James I. An annual fair of some note in the 
neighbourhood, is still held. Seamer formerly belonged to 
the Percy family, but in 1790, it was sold by the Duke of 
Leeds to Joseph Denison, Esq.,"the father of J. W. Deni- 
son, Esq., the present proprietor. The Manor-house, near 
the church, is at present a heap of ruins. The church, 
which is without a tower, contains some good monuments, 
particularly those to the memory of Mrs. Beaumont, the 
vnfe of a former vicar ; but there is nothing remarkable in 
its architecture. The road is continued for some distance 
along the valley, until it reaches the foot of the Wold hills. 
Several villages are planted along the valley at short dis- 



SCARBRO* GUIDE. 7 7 



tances from each other, and the York and Scarborough 
Railway passes through it. Along the road, the traveller 
has, on his right, a beautiful view across a low part of the 
country called the Carrs; and by ascending any of the 
roads on the left, which conduct to the top of the hill, this 
view becomes considerably extended. A few miles from 
Seamer, is the seat of Sir T. Legard, Bart., at 

GANTON. 

The Hall, which is surrounded with aged trees, and sit- 
uated in an opening of the hills, is not visible from the 
road. The spire of the church, however, may be seen 
towering above the foliage of the pleasure grounds. Two 

miles farther, is 

SHERBURN, 

a large village, pleasantly situated in the midst of a fer- 
tile district. From this village, the road may be taken 
across the Carrs, to 

BROMPTON, 

the seat of Sir G. Cayley, Bart., whose mansion is situate 
on the brow of the hill, at the western part of the village. 
On thetop of an eminence, called ''castle hill," are the found- 
ations of extensive ruins, supposed to be the remains of the 
residence of some of the Northumbrian kings, who are re- 
ported to have resided here. The church, erected near the 
mansion, is a neat building, and contains several mon- 
laments to the Cayley family. The next village at which 
we arrive, is 



78 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



Y/YKEHAM, 

situated a mile nearer to Scarborough.. Near tlie entrance 
to this village, is a ruin, supposed to be the remains of an 
ancient chapel, dedicated to St Helen. A small part of the 
ruins of an ancient Abbey are at a short distance from the 
Tillage. This abbey was founded and endowed for the 
Nuns of the Cistercian order, about the year 1153, by P. 
Fitzosbert de Wycham. Near the site of this ruin, is the 
elegant mansion of the Hon. Marmaduke Langley, desig- 
nated Wykeham Abbey. To the left, a little removed 
from the road leading from this village, is 

HUTTON-BUSCEL, 

pleasently situated on the side of a hill, and extends in 
a direction parallel with the road to Scarborough. Since 
the estate passed into the hands of the Hon. Marmaduke 
Langley, several neat cottages have been erected in the 
tillage, and other improvements effected. The road to Scar- 
borough is continued through East and "West Ayton and 
Falsgrave. We next proceed to the west. At a distance 
of eighteen miles in this direction, is 

PICKERING, 

in the road to Kirby Moor-side and Duncombe Park. It is 
eighteen miles distant from Scarborough, and was form- 
erly the chief to-vvn of the district, and sent two members 
to Parliament. The castle is on the north side of the town 
in a pleasant and elevated situation on the verge of a lime- 



SCARBRO* GUIDE. 79 



stone rock. On a lofty circular mound near the centre of 
the area has stood the keep^ of which some shapeless frag- 
ments only remain. The walls are flanked with towers, 
excellently built, and their upper stories are neatly orna- 
mented The Saxon arch in the westren wall, is an in- 
teresting object, and from the height of the ruins, a charm- 
ing view is obtained of the vale of Pickering celebrated for 
its fertility. A branch of rhe York and Scarborough Rail- 
way passes through Pickering to Whitby. Pickering is 
well worthy the attention of strangers and a pleasant ex- 
cursion may be made from thence to 

WHITBY, 

a town of great antiquity, and where ship-building is car- 
ried on to a considerable extent. 

KIRBY MOOR-SIDE 

is a market town, situated near the river Rye. It was 
originally called Klrkhy^ and received the additional epi 
thet Mqpr-side, from its situation on the side of Blackmoor. 
It is distant from Scarborough about twenty-six miles. 
Kirby Moor-side and Helmsley (including Buncombe 
Park) were part of the extensive possessions of Yilliers, 
Duke of Buckingham. On the road from Kirby Moor-side 
to Helmsley, and Duncombe Park, is the celebrated 

KIRKDALE CAYERN. 

At a short distance from this cave, is Kirkdale Churchy 



80 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



-. situate in a fine romantic valley, and celebrated for a. dial, 
bearing a very ancient inscription, at a date, before the 
Norman Conquest. The visitor may next visit 

HELMSLEY, 

the property of Lord Feversham. It is an ancient market 
town, in a sleasant situation, on the banks of the river Rye, 
six miles from Kirby Moor-side. The cultivated part of 
the country contiguous to it, is fertile, and abounds with 
venerable woods ; but, at a distance, the barren moors 
appear in view. The remains of the castle are grand and 
imposing, consisting of a lofty tower ; and some other 
detached broken parts, with a noble gateway, situated upon 
an eminence, surrounded with a double moat. The tower 
in conjunction with the rich woodland scenery around, 
forms a prominent and most interesting object from the 
exquisite terrace belonging to Buncombe Park. 

mVAULX ABBEY 

is a stately vestige of antiquity, situated in a pleasant vale 
about three miles from Duncombe Park. The vestiges 
yet standing, are noble, and prove the abbey to have been 
of great extent. The situation is not to be surpassed in 
picturesque beauty. At a little distance from the ruins 
are the gardener's apartments, whence there is a steep and 
winding path ascending to a charming terrace, which 
overlooks the whole, and commands the most beautiful and 
diversified prospects. At one end is an elegant pavilion 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. §1 



ornamented with paintings ; at the other a handsome 
circular temple, whence appears an extensive valley, richly 
adorned with wood and water. The north side of the 
terrace is defended by a thick plantation of firs, and the 
slopes are covered with a variety of trees and shrubs. 
Indeed the scenery is beyond description fascinating. 

DUNOOMBE PARK, 

the seat of Lord Fever sham, is about two miles from 

Helmsley. The house is a fine building, designed by Sir 

John Vanburgh. In the hail, a noble room, sixty feet 

long and forty wide, surrounded with fourteen large 

Corinthian pillars of stone, is that invaluable piece of 

sculpture, the Dog of Alcibiades, the performance of the 

celebrated Myron, and the famous statue of theDiscobulus, 

which is esteemed the first statue in England. "We must 

not fail to notice to the traveller, that Byland Abbey, an 

interesting ruin is only about four miles from Kivaulx 

Abbey. 

CASTLE-HOWARD, 

the seat of the Earl of Carlisle, six miles to the west of 

Malton, is also worthy of notice. It is situated and stands 

upon a beautiful eminence in view of the York road, and 

is esteemed one of the noblest mansions in this country. 

We next proceed to the south ; at a distance of eight miles 

in this direction, is 

FILEY. 

This improving place, a short time ago, was little more 
Itlian a fishing village^ it has now obtained some celebritj 



82 SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



as a watering place. It stands elevated upon the banks 
and nearly in the centre of a beautiful and spacious bay • 
the sands of which are remarkably smooth and firm, and 
extend for a distance of upwards of three miles along the 
coast. There are proper conveniences on the shore for 
bathing in the open sea, and baths have also been erected 
upon the beach and in the town. The bay is terminated 
on the south by the stupendous promontory of Flamborough 
Head, and on the north by a ridge of rock, designated 
Filey Bridge, which extends a distance of half a mile into 
the sea. The whole of this natural ridge is overflowed at 
high water, but when the tide is down it may be paced to 
its extremity, whence good views are obtained of Flam- 
borough Head on the south, and of Scarborough Castle on 
the north. The town, which is situated in two ridings of 
the county, has recently undergone very considerable 
improvements ; several elegant houses have been erected, 
and large sums expended in draining and otherwise 
improving the place. In fine weather, on a calm day, 
Filey may safely be visited by a boat but to those who prefer 
to go by land the railway offers every facihty, there being 
trains four or five times a day. Still further to the south, 
about nineteen miles from Scarborough, is 
FLAMBOROUGH HEAD, 
one of the most striking promontories of the eastern coast. 
The village of Flamborough occupies nearly the centre of 
this promontory. It was at one time a place of some note, 
but is at present only a small fishing village. The name 
is most probably derived from the ancient practice of 
mounting a flaming beacon on the cliffs. It is traditionally 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 83 

reported to have been visited by the Danes in their 

predatory visits to this kingdom ; and the ruins of a tower 

remain at the west end of the village, which from time 

immemorial has been called ^^ Danes Tower.'' Besides 

this tower, mounds of earth and vestiges of masonry are 

occasionally found in its vicinity, making it probable that 

it is only a portion of an extensive structure. The cliffs 

are chiefly of limestone, of snowy w^hiteness, and rise from 

a hundred to a hundred and fifty yards in perpendicular 

height. From April to August, they are covered over 

with aquatic birds, and myriads resort thither to build 

their nests and rear their offspring. On the least alarm 

the air is darkened by their number, and rent by the shrill 

dissonance of their varied notes. At the foot of the cliffs 

are several caverns, the principal of which is known by the 

name of 

ROBIN LYTH'S HOLE. 

There are two entrances to this cavern, one from the 
land and the other from the sea. The one from the land 
is low, and for some distance the visitor has to grope his 
way in darkness ; the light, however, gradually opens upon 
him, and discloses to his view a scene of striking 
magnificence. The floor is of solid rock, and nearly level. 
The roof, which is beautifully arched, rises in the centre, 
nearly fifty feet from the floor, and the sides and arch are 
adorned with many rich and beautiful colours. From the 
sides project many shelvings and grotesque protuberances 
of the rock, which, combined with the other features of 
this remarkable cavern, tend to awe the mind into silent 

G 2 



SCARBRO' GUIDE. 



admiration. The effect of the whole is heightened by the 

distant murmimng of the waves, and the splendid prospect 

of the ocean in all its solemnity and grandeur, presented 

from its mouth. Near Flamborough is situated the 

celebrated Light-house, which, from its elevated situation, 

may be seen at a great distance. The interior may be 

viewed on application. From Flamborough, an excursion 

to the 

CHURCH OF BRIDLINGTON 

should be made, which presents interesting specimens of the 
architecture of various periods. In the church-yard at 
Rudston, a village five miles west from Bridlington, ** is an 
obelisk highly worthy the attention of the antiquary.** It 
consists of one entire and immensely large stone, of itself a 
curiosity : the erection of which has been ascribed to the 
Druids, the Romans, &c. ; as no description can present an 
adequate idea of its magnitude and effects, combined with 
the adjacent scenery, we earnestly recommend a visit to 
the original, which is a venerable object of antiquity. The 
traveller may visit 

HUNMANBY 

on his return. This beautiful village is situated nearly mid- 
way between Scarborough and Burlington, and is about 
two miles distant from the sands at Filey. It is well built 
chiefly of brick, and pleasantly situated in the midst of 
a fertile district, at the northern extremity of the East riding 
of the county. The church is dedicated to All Saints, and 
contains a handsome monument to the Osbaldestoa 



SCABBRO' GUIDE. 



85 



family, to whom most of the township belongs. The seat 
of this family erected here, is an ancient structure, 
surrounded by spacious gardens, and sheltered on the north 
by a wood planted on a rising ground, called ** castle hill." 
On the top of this hill are also the remains of an ancient 
fort. It is not a conspicuous object from the road, being 
walled round and shaded by aged trees. A beautiful 
entrance lodge, built in the Gothic style, has recently been 
erected on the Burlington road, at the east end of the 
village. There are several schools in this village; two 
public libraries ; and alms-houses for six widows. Formerly 
a market was held here on Tuesdays, but this has been 
long discontinued. A cattle market, however, is still held ; 
as also fairs on the 6th of May and 29th of October. The 
population is upwards of one thousand. 




ANCIENT MARKET CROSS. 




APPENDIX 



CLirr-BRIDGE HEGULATIONS. 



Tickets for the bridge, include all charges for admission 

to the saloon and promenade walks, and also for the use of 

the mineral waters. 

£. s. d. 
Tickets admitting any number of the same family 

constantly on the establishment, including 

nurses in attendance on children, (but all other 

servants excepted,) for one week 10 



APPENDIX. 87 



A family ticket, as above described, for fourteen 

days , 15 

A family ticket, as above described, for one month 110 
A family ticket as above described, for the season 1 11 6 

Ticket for a single person, for a week 2 6 

Ditto for fourteen days 4 

Ditto for one month 6 

Ditto for the season . 10 6 

Servant's ticket, for a week 1 6 

J )itto for fourteen days 2 

Ditto for a month 3 

Ditto for a season 5 

Ticket for each individual, for one day 6 

Individuals having or hiring a bath chair draT\Ti by a 
servant, or a sedan chair carried by chairmen, to pay one 
shilling for each day in addition to the above terms. 



MUSEUM. 

TERMS OF ADMISSION. 

S. d. 

A single admission 1 

Ditto for a child under fourteen years .... G 

Admission for a month, each person 2 6 

Ditto for the season 5 

Ditto for a month for a family, including 

servants , 5 

Ditto for three months 10 6 

G 4 



88 APPENDIX. 



POST-OFFICE REGULATIONS. 

The Office is situated at No. 50, Newbro '-Street. 
Post-Master, Mr. John Gillot. 

ARRIVALS. 

From all parts of the United Kingdom and Foreign 
Countries are due (by Rail) at 15 minutes past 9 a.m. 
And again from Hunmanby and Filey, at 15 minutes 
past 3 p.m. 

DEPARTURES. 

To Hunmanby and Filey, at 10 a.m. — To all parts of the 
United Kingdom and Foreign Countries, at 10 minutes 
to 4 p.m. 

The Letter Box closes at 30 minutes past 9 o'clock in 
the morning, for the Hunmanby Mail, but letters will be 
received until 15 minutes before ten, with a fee of Id. ; and 
again for all parts of the United Kingdom and Foreign 
Countries at 3 o'clock .; but letters will be received until 
half-past 3 o'clock with a fee of Id. on each t and from that 
time until 15 minutes to 4 o'clock with a fee of 2d. each. 

The Office is open at 8 o'clock in the morning, and closes 
at 9 in the evening. 

Sunday. — No attendance at the Office from half-past 2 
o'clock to half-past 4 in the afternoon ; nor from 7 to 9 in 
the evening. 



L.otO. 



